Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so i need help... my car prett ymuch died on me. lets start from the beginning. i was driving home from sydney when my speedo stopped working, now my hicas light is on and have no power steering. im fine with that, then yesterday my hicas light was on (its always on now) and it started making thumping soudns from my gearbox i think. pasenger side in the middle my passsenger said she felt it thumping. so i turned my car off. turned it on. still did it. the hicas light was flashing and taking corners would make the steering jolt wen the light was flashing (about twice a second). so i turnbed it off, turned it on did it a couple of times then it wouldnt turn on (i my battery ran flat the other day coz my stero turned on during the night ( my mate isntalled the stero and didnt hok up to accesory power) so i got a jum,pstart yesterday and all was fine till i heard beeping from my tubro timer, the battery was on 10 volts and kepped dropping and the car was loosing power. it wanted to stall at a set of lights, by this time the turbo timer said it was on 8.2 volts. i had to rev to 3k rpm jsust so it wouldnt stall. so i chucked my hhazzards on so no one would hit me and the power dropped even more would only rev to 1.5k with my foot toi the floor. it was doign the old bunny hops liek when u first learned to drive. made it to a car park and the turbo light was on. so i put my foot down and it wouldnt rev over 2k at this point and it sounded wierd. like it was bouncing at 2k rpm took my foot off the accelerator and it stalled. couldnt start again coz hte batter was f**ked. somehow got my power windows up and could smell burning. so i opped my bonnet and saw smoke coming from the back but it didnt last long. look at the pic to see where it came from. anyways had to spend the rest of my money on getting it towed home and i was gogin to go to willowbank tonight to race it. im a apprentice baker so i aint got lots of cash and hopeing it wont cost too much to fix. im gogin to buy a battery next week to see if i can get it to start. any suggestions or help wuld be greatly appretiated. and laughing will make me cry lol

post-22549-1151464465.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124091-car-broke-dont-know-whats-wrong/
Share on other sites

sounds like it may either be a dead alternator, or the associated wiring.

the burning could be the power cable or the alterntor it self.

when the alternator dies, your car will run till the battery goes flat, in which time all electrical accessories start doign funny things.

get it proffesionally checked out.

steve

i'm pleased to tell you that from what you've posted i'm 90% sure it's just a dead alternator. the other 10% is either faulty battery, or faulty wiring from your stero install constantly putting too much load on the alt/battery.

before running out to buy a new batter see if you can get your old one charged. then put it back in. check the voltage, now start the car and check the voltage. if the voltage goes down with the car running then it's the alt. if you are at all handy save yourself the tow job and pull out the alternator. then take it to an auto electrician for a rebuild. should be under $200 just depends what's needed. then re-fit and your away.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...