Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

We have this stuff at work called "never fog" it costs $2 and comes in a little packet, its a cloth that has some sort of anti fog stuff on it and you just rub it all over your window, works really well I hardly ever get fog appearing on my windows anymore.

Edited by Dave69001
n15mo... ur from brisbane.. i guess u dont know the weather down in melbourne... its terribly cold...

dave... where can you buy it??... sounds like an excellent idea...

We sell it where I work (carewash in mt druitt and norwest and envirowash in bankstown) im not sure of any places like Autobarn etc that sell it as its an American product developed for their harsh winters but ill try find out where is it is available for you :whistling:

I hate that No-Fog/Fog-X/Never Fog stuff, because it leaves an oily film on the windscreen that makes it look dirty and hazey in the sunlight... and if you wipe all of the oily stuff off, then you've just wiped off the product and it does sh1t-all!

I find just keeping the inside of the windscreen PERFECTLY clean and spotless is the best option. Then 10 seconds with a blast of hot air demists it quick as a flash! When your windscreen is dirty though, it takes AGES to demist the glass.

We have this stuff at work called "never fog" it costs $2 and comes in a little packet, its a cloth that has some sort of anti fog stuff on it and you just rub it all over your window, works really well I hardly ever get fog appearing on my windows anymore.

That stuff OWNS.

Seriously owns.

OR use the air con.

The cef didnt have air con I just used heat to get rid of it. Hot full blown for 10 seconds would get rid of the coldest fog.

Driving to work at 4:30am guarantee's my windows fogging up so a light wipe over of the AntiFog (made by RainX) and its 98% gone. The only problem with this stuff is if you put it on too thick than it actually works against you.

As gtst1976 said, just run the heater and the aircon at the same time. Set the temp to 20 odd, make sure the air flow is on windscreen, and bingo, demisted windows during the cold wet weather.

The air-con removes the moisture (humidity) from the car on a warm day, and it will also remove the moisture (fog) from the car on a cold day.

Edited by nickcorr

I found its a waste of time, as someone else said it leaves a greasy streaky residue, i might as well have sprayed crc on my windows. Got pissed with it to wiped it off the drivers side but its still on the passengers side. My flatmate said it best when she was in the passengers seat, "it looks like i'm driving drunk, but im not" lol..

The rainX window cleaner however works a treat :).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...