Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtst Vs Gtst 4

R34NRG
 Share

Recommended Posts

R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

Posted
Posted

If your looking for outrite pace, the GTS-T is the go. It has the RB20 RWD but only weighs 1260-1280KG depending on model age. Whereas the GTS-4 has all the 4WD gear the GTR has, with the same engine as teh GTS-T. Hence the GTS-4 weighs somwhere int he vacinity of 1460kg i think (someone correct me?). Both with the same power, obviously the GTS-T will be quicker.

However they do have the ATTESA 4WD system which would be handy. I think a GTS-4 with an RB26DETT conversion would be the go! heheh. Then again you mayaswell buy a real GTR tho.

The 33 weight diff from the GTS-t to the GTS25T-4 isnt quite so big, however the additional weight is there. Hence they are a little slower again than the RWD counterpart.

Really its up to what you want outa the car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2313411
Share on other sites
R34NRG Grand Master

R34NRG

Posted
  • Author
Posted
With the R32 GTS4 Nissan realised spec-wise it was abit too close to the GTR so in the R33 (and R34) they decided to make the GTS-4 non-turbo.

i wasnt aware the r34 series had a gtt-4 if thats wat its called :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2313476
Share on other sites
Absent Community Regular

Absent

Posted
Posted

comparing 32 gtst and gts4:

gts4 can get off the line much faster by lauching at 6000 rpm.

200kg increase means slower top end.

The gtst will catch up to the gts4 over a 1/4 mile.

The gtst has a more chuckable feel and more fun to drive.

Bang for buck a gts4 with rb25 conversion is the goods.

Hard to find a 32gtst in good condition let alone a rare gts4

I am extremely biased to the gtst.

I have a mate who owns a gts4 and it has f**k all torque low in the rev range like all rb20s but its much worse.

Drifting (speaks for itself)

plus I cant believe I am typing this on a Friday night but Ive got that bad cold goin around

anyway I recommend the gtst unless you plan on spending $$$$ on upgrades

My 25 cents

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2313760
Share on other sites
xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted

Only R32s came out with a turbo 4wd GTSt model, the latter ones (r33 and R34) were both non-turbo!

As Tuffr32 said, ultimately a stock GTS4 will be slower than a GTSt because of its weight.

Also, it will be VERY VERY hard to find a good condition GTS4 in Australia, as they are much less common than GTSt. And then it will be worth more than a GTSt, something like $16k or $18k.

If you are interested in making an r32 GTS4 RWD, just take the ATTESA fuse out rig up a switch in the wiring. Its that easy.

Rhett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2316174
Share on other sites
Medium Dave Proficient

Medium Dave

Posted
Posted

I have a gts4 and its great :P it is a bit heavy to be nice and chuckable, but its still pretty nimble and lots of fun. Finding parts takes a bit longer, but thats always the trade off when you have something special.

Its not in the best nic, but I am slowly doing it up, should be a good car when im finished...

If your mate wants one, I say go for it! try anything twice

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2320603
Share on other sites
Kozeyekan Proficient

Kozeyekan

Posted
Posted

As I GTS-4 owner, I thought I'd chuck my opinion in.

The GTS-4 is pretty much a compromise between a GTS-t and a GT-R.

I chose it for the handling aspect.

True, My particular car will likely never see 12's in the quarter mile, but that's not why I bought it.

For me, I get my fun from taking those corners that mates in their falcons, bogandores, magna's and Audi's slow down to a stop for.

I have fun on the twisty's on the mornington peninsula (check out the downhill at Arthurs seat, but do the uphill first, it's some scary sh!t, forget doing that with a 2wd)

The R32 GTS-t and the R32 GTS-4 are practically the same car, save the ATTESA system. If you want that system at a much lower cost (of maintence, repair and initial cost) get the GTS-4. If money is not an issue, get a GT-R, if it's a quarter mile you're after, or AWD just isn't your thing, go the GTS-t.

One other thing to remember, the most common Skylines I see are R33 GTS-t's, and why not, they're a good car. R32 GTS-t's are fairly common, followed by the GT-R's and the R34's, What I'm getting at is that R32 GTS-4's are rare. On the down side, it means some GTS-4 specific parts can be hard to find (I hear the front diff can be particularly difficult to source) To offset that, all the same GTS-T engine parts can be used, along with a host of other parts.

Also, you can install a switch that can allow Rwd operation for Dyno's, or just some Dori fun. check the group buy section.

It's all up to you in the end.

I chose the GTS-4 for the handling, at a cheaper price than a GT-R, and knowing that there are probably less than a hundred in the country.

Just figure out what you want a car to do. Are you a handling man, or do you like the extra G's of planting the pedal? Do you like to stick to the road, or are you a drifter on the streets (Particularly expensive style in Vic witht he new hoon laws though)

It's all up to you.

If you want any particular advice, or opionion, feel free to PM me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2321663
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...