Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If your looking for outrite pace, the GTS-T is the go. It has the RB20 RWD but only weighs 1260-1280KG depending on model age. Whereas the GTS-4 has all the 4WD gear the GTR has, with the same engine as teh GTS-T. Hence the GTS-4 weighs somwhere int he vacinity of 1460kg i think (someone correct me?). Both with the same power, obviously the GTS-T will be quicker.

However they do have the ATTESA 4WD system which would be handy. I think a GTS-4 with an RB26DETT conversion would be the go! heheh. Then again you mayaswell buy a real GTR tho.

The 33 weight diff from the GTS-t to the GTS25T-4 isnt quite so big, however the additional weight is there. Hence they are a little slower again than the RWD counterpart.

Really its up to what you want outa the car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2313411
Share on other sites

With the R32 GTS4 Nissan realised spec-wise it was abit too close to the GTR so in the R33 (and R34) they decided to make the GTS-4 non-turbo.

i wasnt aware the r34 series had a gtt-4 if thats wat its called :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2313476
Share on other sites

comparing 32 gtst and gts4:

gts4 can get off the line much faster by lauching at 6000 rpm.

200kg increase means slower top end.

The gtst will catch up to the gts4 over a 1/4 mile.

The gtst has a more chuckable feel and more fun to drive.

Bang for buck a gts4 with rb25 conversion is the goods.

Hard to find a 32gtst in good condition let alone a rare gts4

I am extremely biased to the gtst.

I have a mate who owns a gts4 and it has f**k all torque low in the rev range like all rb20s but its much worse.

Drifting (speaks for itself)

plus I cant believe I am typing this on a Friday night but Ive got that bad cold goin around

anyway I recommend the gtst unless you plan on spending $$$$ on upgrades

My 25 cents

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2313760
Share on other sites

Only R32s came out with a turbo 4wd GTSt model, the latter ones (r33 and R34) were both non-turbo!

As Tuffr32 said, ultimately a stock GTS4 will be slower than a GTSt because of its weight.

Also, it will be VERY VERY hard to find a good condition GTS4 in Australia, as they are much less common than GTSt. And then it will be worth more than a GTSt, something like $16k or $18k.

If you are interested in making an r32 GTS4 RWD, just take the ATTESA fuse out rig up a switch in the wiring. Its that easy.

Rhett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2316174
Share on other sites

I have a gts4 and its great :P it is a bit heavy to be nice and chuckable, but its still pretty nimble and lots of fun. Finding parts takes a bit longer, but thats always the trade off when you have something special.

Its not in the best nic, but I am slowly doing it up, should be a good car when im finished...

If your mate wants one, I say go for it! try anything twice

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2320603
Share on other sites

As I GTS-4 owner, I thought I'd chuck my opinion in.

The GTS-4 is pretty much a compromise between a GTS-t and a GT-R.

I chose it for the handling aspect.

True, My particular car will likely never see 12's in the quarter mile, but that's not why I bought it.

For me, I get my fun from taking those corners that mates in their falcons, bogandores, magna's and Audi's slow down to a stop for.

I have fun on the twisty's on the mornington peninsula (check out the downhill at Arthurs seat, but do the uphill first, it's some scary sh!t, forget doing that with a 2wd)

The R32 GTS-t and the R32 GTS-4 are practically the same car, save the ATTESA system. If you want that system at a much lower cost (of maintence, repair and initial cost) get the GTS-4. If money is not an issue, get a GT-R, if it's a quarter mile you're after, or AWD just isn't your thing, go the GTS-t.

One other thing to remember, the most common Skylines I see are R33 GTS-t's, and why not, they're a good car. R32 GTS-t's are fairly common, followed by the GT-R's and the R34's, What I'm getting at is that R32 GTS-4's are rare. On the down side, it means some GTS-4 specific parts can be hard to find (I hear the front diff can be particularly difficult to source) To offset that, all the same GTS-T engine parts can be used, along with a host of other parts.

Also, you can install a switch that can allow Rwd operation for Dyno's, or just some Dori fun. check the group buy section.

It's all up to you in the end.

I chose the GTS-4 for the handling, at a cheaper price than a GT-R, and knowing that there are probably less than a hundred in the country.

Just figure out what you want a car to do. Are you a handling man, or do you like the extra G's of planting the pedal? Do you like to stick to the road, or are you a drifter on the streets (Particularly expensive style in Vic witht he new hoon laws though)

It's all up to you.

If you want any particular advice, or opionion, feel free to PM me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2321663
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...