Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmmm i wasn't sure on the reasons behind, thanks for that. I just know that shipments that have been order to australia, (apparently comign from Japan) are beign delaid, i think your probaly right, the fact there new on the market is obvioulsy another reason why theres a delay.

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I didn't know it was made in China.

Fair enough my point still stands though - if you NEED a $750-$2000 kit get one. If you don't car or just need something for 200rwkw then get the forum sponsor nonames.

I'd still be going the Calsonic :D

I have one..Calsonic FTW!

I want to see if the piping and fitting for the GReddy kits is as bad as the ones for the Hybrid/JJ/Generic kits...

I'd hate to see a step down for a reputable brand such as GReddy/Trust to have an instruction such as "Step5: Hack off this part of your radiator fan"

It's generally accepted the actual FMICs are the same quality that can handle the same amount of power but in my opinion the quality of the kits is reflected in the piping/fitting and not the FMIC itself.

Wink the piping for the Mspec folows the exact same route as teh V-SPL kit. The actully piping is probably better then it's more expensive trust counter part, as it uses all silcon hoses and not rubber, and the actully piping is pollished steel for the ppl who want that shiny bling look.

The Mspec kit has "GReddy SPL-V" piping (except has Silicon joiners- SPL-V has rubber hose)!

The Cores are made in Taiwan but made to Japanese Standards!

There wont be anything wrong with them, personally id rather buy GReddy as all the pipes and everything will fit up nicelly! Plus im not planning for 250+rwkw's

Quote from nissan silvia:

"We have spoken to Greddy/Trust Japan and the Intercooler Core is made in Taiwan, however the Quality inspection and control has been done by Greddy Japan. Piping is the same as V-Spec and is made in Japan."

Link if u r interested!

Edited by hawker05

Shit if this offer was available when I got my FMIC I'd have paid $100 so I wouldn't have to either

A) Cut up my rad fan

B) Modify the piping brackets to fit the kit on without doing A)

Also my JJ kit has REALLY thin piping. When you knock it with your knuckles it feels like you could bend the piping with your fingers.

hey all, i dont know too much about fmic bout i got quoted $700 fitted from the place i bought my car from, i know its only some sort of hybrid but the piping and connections are silicon (blue) and seem to look good. I know there probably as good as the other ones going around but isnt it better to have a good shit one then a shit good one, if that makes sense, lol

zGee thats cheap for the gtek. Do you have to cut the bar etc?

Is the Gtek one a bit too big?

Is it 2.5" piping?

Cheers

You have to trim the front bar (as with almost all intercooler kits).

The piping is all 2.5" polished mandrel bent aluminium.

cheers,

Greg

  • 1 month later...

I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I thought I'd revive it as I've been looking at this situation myself & I have a few questions it would be appreciated if some people could answer.

How much better is a Tube & Fin intercooler over a Bar & plate & how critical is the end tank design? Not sure which would be the go in absolute performance terms as far as a cheap tube & fin vs an expensive good performing bar & plate type one.

I also eventually want to go a front facing plenum as the long term plan is for 300+ rwKW so the Piping won't be permanant. Would I have to cut the hole under the battery plate further forward if I was to change to a front facing plenum? I don't want my car to be a butchers special.

I have looked at the V-spec Greddy/Trust tube & fin cooler too, but I can't see that the price of it over the Hybrid is justified. Sure it fits right & has better end tanks, but for double the price? It'd wanna be made in Japan for that money!

My other alternative is to just wait unit I got the money for the plenum too & go full custom.

Any input appreciated. Cheers

Edited by JazzaR33

For the price of $349 we sell full Intercooler kits for the GTS-T's.

The intercoolers will support 300rwkw's without a problem.

If you're talking in terms of Hybrid *tube and fin* VS the bar and plate there is NO noticable difference. The Hybrid *tube and fin* is NOTHING like a japenese tube and fin. It's more like a bar and fin... ?

BUT If you're talking in terms of bar and plate VS Japense tube and fin, then you might have a slight difference but I have still not been able to tell the difference between coolers with close to 300rwkw's (r32 with RB25 and TD06 high mount setup).

If you use one of our kits (or equivelant) then there really isn't a need to cut another hole later on as the piping can still run through that side of the car and is pretty much in the right location for a front facing plenum. You would just need to lose the top cross over pipe and get 1 pipe made up (probably cost $100 or so to get custom made in stainless).

Value for money, there is no point of going Hybrid, but if you like brand names then the Jap coolers are great :(

That's my opinion and I use these on my own cars...

Greg

Edited by EXAUNV

One other thing I did forget to mention. I don't want to be chopping the crap out of my front structural beam either. After witnessing a rather horrific crash involving another 33 I want to be sure I have every mm of that sucker in front of me.

Thanks for the info EXAUNV

One other thing I did forget to mention. I don't want to be chopping the crap out of my front structural beam either. After witnessing a rather horrific crash involving another 33 I want to be sure I have every mm of that sucker in front of me.

Thanks for the info EXAUNV

I don't think there's any aftermarket front mount intercooler kits that don't require you to cut into the bar re-enforcement.

When the intercooler is there and supporting the reo aswell, I think it is okay (only a small amount has to be cut out) (just don't remove it all together like some people do!!)

Greg

I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I thought I'd revive it as I've been looking at this situation myself & I have a few questions it would be appreciated if some people could answer.

How much better is a Tube & Fin intercooler over a Bar & plate & how critical is the end tank design? Not sure which would be the go in absolute performance terms as far as a cheap tube & fin vs an expensive good performing bar & plate type one.

I also eventually want to go a front facing plenum as the long term plan is for 300+ rwKW so the Piping won't be permanant. Would I have to cut the hole under the battery plate further forward if I was to change to a front facing plenum? I don't want my car to be a butchers special.

I have looked at the V-spec Greddy/Trust tube & fin cooler too, but I can't see that the price of it over the Hybrid is justified. Sure it fits right & has better end tanks, but for double the price? It'd wanna be made in Japan for that money!

My other alternative is to just wait unit I got the money for the plenum too & go full custom.

Any input appreciated. Cheers

I would also like to see some definitive answers to your questions too. The CRD tube and fin Hybrid copy FMIC for $379 looks alright to me, but if it is quite limited then I don't want to have to upgrade to a V-spec or similar at a later date.

Glad you dragged this one up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We have a huge update coming in the next few months, version 5 of Invision will be released. I'm holding off any changes until after this change as I'm not sure what features will be removed or introduced.
    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...