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hey every one,

unfortunately for me i have to pull out my freshly rebuilt motor that has just made 416kw.

reasons being- i was un aware that i needed to add a crank collar to the fron of my crank. i am currently using an n1 oil pump on stock r32 gtr crank.

also i didnt know about the inherent oil supply issues of the rb26.

so i am going to use a 1mm oil gallery restrictor, add the external oil return from the back of the head to my 2nd and unused turbo oil return.(running t04z)

reason for this topic is, do i need to get sump extension or can i just get a baffle from hi octane racing?

this car is a street/dyno/sometimes drag gtr. but i am worried about going to the drags due to the above reasons. too high a risk factor of it running dry of oil.

cheers

Jeremy

Edited by DVS32R

Late model 32engines had the late ( modified crank, like the 33's and 34's), if you have one of them you dont need a collar. Oil restrictor and sump baffles should be fine as long as the oil is always at the full mark, i put a couple of hundred ml extra in mine. If you want tomei sump baffles let me know, i know someone that has them for sale, new.

I would say you wont need baffle or extension. if its predominately a street car.

When you go to the drags, just drop and extra 1/2 --> 1ltr of oil in there and thats more than adequate.

If you have cash to spare i guess you could throw some at it. Your call, but not essential

hey every one,

unfortunately for me i have to pull out my freshly rebuilt motor that has just made 416kw.

reasons being- i was un aware that i needed to add a crank collar to the fron of my crank. i am currently using an n1 oil pump on stock r32 gtr crank.

also i didnt know about the inherent oil supply issues of the rb26.

so i am going to use a 1mm oil gallery restrictor, add the external oil return from the back of the head to my 2nd and unused turbo oil return.(running t04z)

reason for this topic is, do i need to get sump extension or can i just get a baffle from hi octane racing?

this car is a street/dyno/sometimes drag gtr. but i am worried about going to the drags due to the above reasons. too high a risk factor of it running dry of oil.

cheers

Jeremy

Jeremy the only time the gtrs run into oil supply issues are on heavy cornering during track use so if your not aiming at track then a baffle and oil restrictor will be fine i dont even believe you need the extra return as this is to drain away the oil during oil surge from cornering. I WOULDN"T add extra oil to the std sump for drag meeting you would be asking for problems will oil surge, just install baffle and run good oil and std level and all will be sweet. If you have anymore questions on the oil surge feel free to pm me.

pete

ps nice hp figure

thanks heaps guys.

my car is an 89 model. So will definately need the crank collar.

i thought the main factors were the grip with big power in a straight line throwing the oil to the back of the motor away from the pickup.

the external oil return will be the easy and cheapest part of my repairs, so i think i might just do it any way. who knows one day i might go have a play on a curcuit.

i think i might just put a baffle in the sump to help. just in case. but i was hoping i didnt have to spend heaps. hi octane are selling them for about 370 retail. so ill get it for a bit under that.

any body know wat the length of the oil pump drive is

with collar-

without collar-

getting a tomei oil pump for 1450

i have got a price of 200 for a jun collar.

acl race series metal head gasket 1.3mm 450 (thought it would be cheaper)

9500rpm max valve springs 654 (still got standard ones)

1mm oil gallery restricter 7

if any one can do better for any of the parts i need or would reccomend a different type please feel free to let me know.

cheers

Jeremy

All sounds sweet, sorry to hear about the problems though. Have you heard of a kimetic head gasket, pretty sure they are cheaper than $400 and are designed for very high boost pressures and nitrous engines. arguably th best gasket available. Have pmd you with specs and price of head gasket.

thanks heaps guys.

my car is an 89 model. So will definately need the crank collar.

i thought the main factors were the grip with big power in a straight line throwing the oil to the back of the motor away from the pickup.

the external oil return will be the easy and cheapest part of my repairs, so i think i might just do it any way. who knows one day i might go have a play on a curcuit.

i think i might just put a baffle in the sump to help. just in case. but i was hoping i didnt have to spend heaps. hi octane are selling them for about 370 retail. so ill get it for a bit under that.

any body know wat the length of the oil pump drive is

with collar-

without collar-

getting a tomei oil pump for 1450

i have got a price of 200 for a jun collar.

acl race series metal head gasket 1.3mm 450 (thought it would be cheaper)

9500rpm max valve springs 654 (still got standard ones)

1mm oil gallery restricter 7

if any one can do better for any of the parts i need or would reccomend a different type please feel free to let me know.

cheers

Jeremy

Edited by BezerkR32

well I wouldn't pull the motor out again just to put the crank collar on.

32 drive is about 5mm, 33 is about 25mm.

But, despite seeing wear on the oil pump housings after 100000klm, there have been very few failures caused by a worn pump drive....in fact there are none recorded in the engine failure thread and I can't hink of any off hand (feel free to find someone it has happened to).

Yes the 33 collar is better but the 32 one is not a time bomb.

But if you have decided to pull it out, everything on your list sounds good. Except the Tomei oil pump, is there a specific reason you think you need it, 3 times the price of an n1 pump!

Duncan- knowing my luck i will be one of the few that have a failure.

looking at getting a tomei pump beacause i thought while its out again and im doing every thing else to make it invincible(well so i dont break it straight away). also beacause my mate just broke his n1 oil pump on a rwd rb26, dumped the clutch at 9000rpm and saw his oil light come on. big problem.

not keen on rebuilding my motor again.

rb26s13-my specs and dyno sheet are in the rb26 power topic.

think the dyno sheet in there is for about 403kw will have a look now.cant remember if i scanned my 416kw sheet.

cheers

Jeremy

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