Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently bought some wheel that are +35 offset for my r31. Unfortunately it looks as if I'll have to run spacers to get them to sit out more.

I had hub centric spacers on the front of my cefiro and not one issue, taken on the track, over a few ripple strips etc and no dramas at all.

I need to find a new pair and found JustJap have them for $130/pr - cheapest new price I could find.

http://www.justjap.com/parts_nhubs.htm

Then I found roguepi (ns.com sponsor) has these that are apperantly "magnisium", I'm sure he means magnesium.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/25mm-HUB-CENTRIC-Wh...8QQcmdZViewItem

Question is - I'm scared of massive stud failure going around a corner incase I slide sideways over a ripple strip and while it's just a r31, I fear for what might happen to me in such instance. Obviously something I'd like to avoid.

So if I -have- to run spacers, does it really matter if I get the JustJap ones, or the 'magnisium' ones? (is it worth the extra money)? Personally I'm leaning to the "I don't think it matters too much" camp but I thought I'd check in.

Please only reply if you know about metals, engineering, suspension or have used either or both products in HARD DRIVING (read: TRACK) situations.

Thanks everyone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125797-hub-centric-wheel-spacer-material/
Share on other sites

I recently bought some wheel that are +35 offset for my r31. Unfortunately it looks as if I'll have to run spacers to get them to sit out more.

I had hub centric spacers on the front of my cefiro and not one issue, taken on the track, over a few ripple strips etc and no dramas at all.

I need to find a new pair and found JustJap have them for $130/pr - cheapest new price I could find.

http://www.justjap.com/parts_nhubs.htm

Then I found roguepi (ns.com sponsor) has these that are apperantly "magnisium", I'm sure he means magnesium.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/25mm-HUB-CENTRIC-Wh...8QQcmdZViewItem

Question is - I'm scared of massive stud failure going around a corner incase I slide sideways over a ripple strip and while it's just a r31, I fear for what might happen to me in such instance. Obviously something I'd like to avoid.

So if I -have- to run spacers, does it really matter if I get the JustJap ones, or the 'magnisium' ones? (is it worth the extra money)? Personally I'm leaning to the "I don't think it matters too much" camp but I thought I'd check in.

Please only reply if you know about metals, engineering, suspension or have used either or both products in HARD DRIVING (read: TRACK) situations.

Thanks everyone.

I am not a fan of bolt on hub spacers. I have seen far too many failures of the spacers themselves (cracking), the wheels (cracking) and the wheel bearings (noisy).

Personally I would sell the wheels and buy something the right offset in the first place.

:D cheers :P

while we are on this topic I have just switched from +20 17X9 wheels on my 32 GTR to +30 17X9 wheels (standard 33 GTR wheels). Now I want to regain the 10mm a side of track I've lost but obviously bolt on spacers cant work (too thick) so i'm left with the little slide on things. is adding a 10mm spacer ring going to cause any problems? I mean it seems that the wheel wont be seated properly on the hub centre any more. I know plenty of people do it but i'm just a little dubious.

Fair enough SK. Unfortunately it's very hard and impossible to find 2 piece made in Japan rims in 16x7 and 8 with an offset that fits a r31.

They are +34 and fit a s13 but on the r31 they need spacing out. Hopefully I'll avoid the noisy bearing problem as it'll actually be closer to the stock offset with the spacer in.

Richard - I wouldn't touch those things at all. Anything reducing the amount of thread holding your wheels on isn't good, it also is taking the wheel further away from the hub ring thing.. no thanks. Why is it you can't get a 10mm bolt-on spacer? I see them everywhere.

while we are on this topic I have just switched from +20 17X9 wheels on my 32 GTR to +30 17X9 wheels (standard 33 GTR wheels). Now I want to regain the 10mm a side of track I've lost but obviously bolt on spacers cant work (too thick) so i'm left with the little slide on things. is adding a 10mm spacer ring going to cause any problems? I mean it seems that the wheel wont be seated properly on the hub centre any more. I know plenty of people do it but i'm just a little dubious.

I have the same problem. There is a place up here in Brisbane that are called Wheel Revolutions that are making mine up. Machining them to suit the hub and wheel basically, so they WILL fit and sit right. They arent bolt on just slip on, but are hub centric. I have had got longer wheel studs tho, and they did check that before asking any more questions. So maybe give them a try, or someone like that down your way. They also said they could do 8mm ones, so I guess its 2mm less but hey. Id say its an option.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...