Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Went past Bezerkly Automotive in Wollongong this afternoon and saw Stuart's R32 back from Profab with it's shiny new 8-point roll cage. Can't wait to see this thing in action. GTR rear guards going on next - it's next stop is the panel shop where it will have the guards grafted on to the skinny arse of the gtst and cop a fresh coat of undiscovered colour! :wub:

post-695-1152778148.jpg

post-695-1152778167.jpg

post-695-1152778183.jpg

post-695-1152778201.jpg

post-695-1152778216.jpg

post-695-1152778233.jpg

post-695-1152778253.jpg

post-695-1152778268.jpg

post-695-1152778285.jpg

post-695-1152778299.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125999-in-the-build-whale-eater-32/
Share on other sites

Restricted to 28x9" slick in oz mod, Have GTR rear cradle assy fitted so ill see how that goes, will have to do alot of spring and shock testing to get it working well. Looking at re-valving front struts. Running a 2 speed glide built by Protrans. Brakes are all standard, 2 spot rear and 4 spot front, car had slotted rotors on it. Trying to keep weight down to 2500 pounds, give me a chance against those rotarys. Thats about it really, its nothing out of the ordinary, i just think Adrian got a bit excited.

whats it goin to be used for? drag car? track? street....? what other details are there for the car so far, transmission, suspension/brakes/wheels/tyre set up?

have some parts for sale listed in for sale section for those that might be interested. heaps of interior stuff and some mechanical.

Restricted to 28x9" slick in oz mod, Have GTR rear cradle assy fitted so ill see how that goes, will have to do alot of spring and shock testing to get it working well. Looking at re-valving front struts. Running a 2 speed glide built by Protrans. Brakes are all standard, 2 spot rear and 4 spot front, car had slotted rotors on it. Trying to keep weight down to 2500 pounds, give me a chance against those rotarys. Thats about it really, its nothing out of the ordinary, i just think Adrian got a bit excited.
  • 3 weeks later...

Roll cage was done by Pro Fab in Wollongong. It is a 8 point Molly cage. also includes rear strut brase bar and front dash cross bar. Cost $2900 fitted. they have to come and finish the seat support and parachute bracket. Its a bit hard to see from the pics but there was a huge amount of work done on the floor to mount the cage on boxes and plates. Took the best part of a week. Yeh getting exited now that it is starting to take shape.

Looks awesome mate you must be excited. If you dont mind me asking how much was the roll cage fabrication/installation?? PM me if you dont wanna post it in here.

Thanks

post-20078-1154385254.jpg

post-20078-1154385374.jpg

post-20078-1154385502.jpg

Edited by BezerkR32

They would do the cage different for street use, the side intrusion bars would be removable, and it would all have to be fitted with roof lining and pillar & door trims, would be 6 point, not 8 so you could sit people in the back etc etc but can be done.. Quick street car 10.99 or quicker?

Shit that isnt too bad at all. I was thinking 5g or more,:D could you get that with an engineers certificate for it without too much drama? (street use)

Few pics of engine & transmission dummy up, had to cut small section of transmission tunnel on passenger side. Had a few sets of engine mounts lying around, unfortunately cant remember what was what but they bolted directly to RB30 block and to crossmember perfect. Got a bit lucky. I think they are RB25 mounts. Just have to finish rear crossmember then get shaft made.

post-20078-1154735240.jpg

post-20078-1154735332.jpg

post-20078-1154735423.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...