Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When I was buying my recent car I drove more GTS-T's and GTR's then you can poke a stick at.

I say go GTR if you want a car that feels like 100% proof Alcohol

Get a GTS-T if you want to drink milk.

Becouse a GTS-T really is milk compaired to a GTR.

I was comparing a R32 GTR to a R33 GTS-T.

Just thought this was relevent.

I would have a 33 or 34 GTR in a minute if one was dropped in my lap for a reasonable price and was in good to great condition.

I am leaning a lot more on the GTST side now , as I can do a lot of work myself and do bits every now and then. Because at the end of the day I want a unique looking (you will know what I mean if you saw my last R33) well built , strong, reliable and something I can slide around in as well. Have decided I am going to paint it the Light pearl blue from the ford XR6/8 (A lighter version of my R33) I want about 200-225rwkw with a lot of suspention work as I love going down to the track.

I just don't know. I've driven both a lightly modded R32 GTR and a highly modded GTS-T and for the get-off-the-line-holy-crap, you can't go past a GTR. BUT!!! The GTS-T was only 1 second behind the GTR on the National Circuit at QR, same driver. For the dollars and fun factor, I would go a GTS-T (RB25 only though)

Also, a lot of the GTR owners I know are not game to launch hard because they are frightened of breaking something.

It all comes down to clutch, i couldnt launch with my old clutch, in went a new Nismo twin plate - and it launches perfectly now (see sig) :wave:

It all comes down to clutch, i couldnt launch with my old clutch, in went a new Nismo twin plate - and it launches perfectly now (see sig) :wave:

No one said GTRs cant launch...Dave was just saying that many who own them are afarid to lauch and break stuff....and to be honest unless they are launched they arent that fast

WELL when I do my convertion I will be looking closely at a different gaer box, as my cluth will be fine as I just put in a Exedy HD 5 puk clutch in. and I want about 225kw out of the RB25 so I will have to think about if a standard gearbox will like that to much. What parts break in stock gearbox's and can I just get it re-built and strenghend before I chuck it on.

WELL when I do my convertion I will be looking closely at a different gaer box, as my cluth will be fine as I just put in a Exedy HD 5 puk clutch in. and I want about 225kw out of the RB25 so I will have to think about if a standard gearbox will like that to much. What parts break in stock gearbox's and can I just get it re-built and strenghend before I chuck it on.

The gearbox in the R33 GTS-T is pretty strong. I've got around the rwkw numbers you are talking and I have had probably 30 trips down the strip and 100+ laps of QR and the gearbox is fantastic (actually gets better the hotter it gets.) So I wouldn't spend money on it until you manage to break it!!

Yeah you can use the same clutch. I bought a decent clutch, but skimped on the gearbox for now.

Mine will be about 230rwkw when I can afford to buy an EBC and get the PowerFC tuned. That's about as far as I am taking it (so I say now)

cool keep me posted pred as I hope to have around the same mods as you. I will be using your site as well alot so keep that up, I always look forward to the updates on it.

to much mussle for me , I would rather keep all 4 wheels on the road. Plus I will be spending enough money on mods and rice, to be spending any more on fuel! Remember I will be taking it back upto Darwin where fuel is at $1.50 for pemiuim

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...