Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First things first, i tired the search function but it SUCKS and is hardly worth using.

anyway, my 100k service is coming up and i need to get myself some spark plugs, im buying all the parts myself and getting someone to fit them.

I know that NGK make good plugs but which ones to use?

irridium? platinum?

i know theyre expensive but im willing to pay good money for a good product.

are there any other decent brands i should look at?

also, does anyone know of any sites where i can order these online?

the car is a 96 R33 Gt-st.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126249-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites

just go with coppers. you have to change them more often but they work out cheaper in the long run. i had iridiums in my car and they were stuffed after 20,000km. so thats $120 for 20,000ks, or $24 for 10,000ks. my mechanic uses them in his sr20.

the part number is something like BCPR6ES. not 100% sure but i know they are heat range 6.

Edited by mad082
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126249-spark-plugs/#findComment-2332080
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

Going to buy some sparkies for my 33 GTST this weekend. Mad082 posted the part numbers BCPR6ES but why is it when you go to the NGK site, if you choose RB25DET the part number PFR5G-11 comes up? Any ideas?

I'm just a lil confused on which ones i should get. Also I assume i would have to gap these plugs?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126249-spark-plugs/#findComment-2358081
Share on other sites

don't bother typing in rb25det or anything like that. the plug that it brought up are a hotter plug, and gapped larger (easy to fix though).

the copper plugs will handle the power fine. they spark just as well as iridiums. you may just need to gap them a bit smaller than 0.8mm for 18psi. and you may possibly want to go to a heat range of 7.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126249-spark-plugs/#findComment-2358912
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

I bought myself a set of BCPR6ES but i remember reading somewhere that they should be the BCPR6ES-11.

The only difference i believe is that the BCPR6ES has a standard gap whereas the BCPR6ES-11 had a gap of 1.1mm.

I measured the gap of the BCPR6ES using a feeler gauge and it was 0.8mm (which is what ideally would like the gap to be anyway).

So I assume the BCPR6ES is what most people are using not the BCPR6ES-11, that's if they are using just the standard copper plugs rather than the iridiums. Am I correct?

Please correct me if i'm wrong as i will be putting in my plugs today. thanks

Edited by Scooby_Steve
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126249-spark-plugs/#findComment-2366498
Share on other sites

1.1 is fine if you are only running stock boost. the problem is that once you wind the boost up the extra air can blow the spark out. but reducing the gap you reduce the chance of the spark being blown out.

i think the reason why they don't want you to regap iridiums is incase you damage the tip.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126249-spark-plugs/#findComment-2366597
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...