Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just added a hiflow turbo to my skyline

it has these mods

apexi

3inch dump pipe and exhaust

Z32 airflow meter and pod

gtr fuel pump

front mount cooler

blitz boost controller

high flow ball bearing 450hp turbo from turbo australia

standard manifolds

on 10psi it made 251rwhp but ran into nock problems

at 13deg timing could not run any more boost or timing into it ...

The nock would go to high .

they even richened the fuel up at the top end .... to stop it knocking but this did not help

It would not knock till right on 6200rpm ....

Any one else seen this problem before ?

dnyo sheets are here http://www.tuffstreetcars.com/skyline2.pdf

http://www.tuffstreetcars.com/skyline.pdf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126291-hi-flow-turbo-problem/
Share on other sites

He will be running a SAFC which you can run aftermarket AFM's with. . The SAFC has limitations you need to compromize between your air/fuel ratio and timing this is fine with the stock turbo but it starts to get difficult when an aftermarket turbo is added to the mix. Its probably time to invest in a Power FC or similar you will probably also need to upgrade the injectors.

cheers

He will be running a SAFC which you can run aftermarket AFM's with. . The SAFC has limitations you need to compromize between your air/fuel ratio and timing this is fine with the stock turbo but it starts to get difficult when an aftermarket turbo is added to the mix. Its probably time to invest in a Power FC or similar you will probably also need to upgrade the injectors.

cheers

sorry i have a power fc just tuned on the dyno ....im not using all of the injectors i have yet as i cant up the boost or timing as the knock goes to high looking at the turbo housing size ....right now but im not sure thats why i asked

Looking @ the dyno sheet, the tuning is nothing short of below average.

Has the tuner got expirience with PowerFC's ... and turbo performance in general ?

Whats the fuel pressure like?

Personally i would say the problem begins and ends with the workshop you have there.

I would go somewhere else for a secondary opinion.

Might cost some $$ but i would think it will save you some hassle

Seconded

Looking @ the dyno sheet, the tuning is nothing short of below average.

Has the tuner got expirience with PowerFC's ... and turbo performance in general ?

Whats the fuel pressure like?

Personally i would say the problem begins and ends with the workshop you have there.

I would go somewhere else for a secondary opinion.

Might cost some $$ but i would think it will save you some hassle

How can you have a power fc and a stock ecu? Piggybacked due to auto?

If it is a power fc tune then that is sub par, I agree with nismod, safc then acceptable and also explains your detonation issue and having to mess with the base timing rather than the specific cells where the detonation occurs.

yeah that's a pretty rough power curve. can see his mods to the AFRs were decent but the power is still quite ordinary.

Time to go for a full ECU, rather than a piggyback. If that is a full ECU then get a better tuner.

i just added a hiflow turbo to my skyline

it has these mods

high flow ball bearing 450hp turbo from turbo australia

standard manifolds

on 10psi it made 251rwhp but ran into nock problems

at 13deg timing could not run any more boost or timing into it ...

The nock would go to high .

Any one else seen this problem before ?

A little off thread Dan, but do you know the ID tag numbers off your hi-flow core?

The guys from Turbo Australia are pretty good, just interested to see what specs they ran for your unit.

I'd have a few concerns about the output, given I achieved 223rwhp with a stock turbo @ 7.5psi and other similar supporting mods to yours. Look at the tuning I suspect.

cheers

Edited by Dale FZ1
A little off thread Dan, but do you know the ID tag numbers off your hi-flow core?

The guys from Turbo Australia are pretty good, just interested to see what specs they ran for your unit.

I'd have a few concerns about the output, given I achieved 223rwhp with a stock turbo @ 7.5psi and other similar supporting mods to yours. Look at the tuning I suspect.

cheers

hi i dont have the turbo now its back at there shop ...till they sort it out, stock one is back on and feels a lot better then the high flow right now ...so im not sure what the problem is

How can you have a power fc and a stock ecu? Piggybacked due to auto?

If it is a power fc tune then that is sub par, I agree with nismod, safc then acceptable and also explains your detonation issue and having to mess with the base timing rather than the specific cells where the detonation occurs.

yeah sorry was late when i posted it just has the power fc handcontroler

Have you taken it somewhere else for tuning?

these are the guys the turbo shop wants to do the tune on it ...

when i bought the turbo i was told they done a lot of the 450hp hiflows , only to find out im now the first one they have done so they are trying to fix the problem best they can .

Edited by Turbo Dan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...