Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pm '180athid' on these forums and ns.com - he rolled my guards, did a good job...

$45 a corner...

Athid gets my vote also, hes flared my 33, and he'll be flaring the s14 in a couple of weeks time :)

Oh Daz, if uve seen Freddys S14, Athid rolled the @$$ end on that too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126926-guards-rolled/#findComment-2344984
Share on other sites

I thought rolling the guards was just doing something to the inside lip...didnt think it affected the outside appearance at all?

I think they mean flaring?

But Motorware in Clayton also does it too :P

Oh and if there's a group buy of somesort.. I'm in! :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126926-guards-rolled/#findComment-2350603
Share on other sites

im just talking about rolling the guards to fit wide rims...not interested in flaring

anyone know if rolling the guards (may also be called lipping?) requires respraying?

Cracking the paint is a definite possibility (just look at mine...) which will at the very least need a touch up/spray

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126926-guards-rolled/#findComment-2350656
Share on other sites

due to need with wider rims and when you lower it a fair bit? whats width rims would need the guards rolled...I think I want some 9.5"s on the back and 8.5" on the front with stock springs atm...wondering if I need some rolling action...guess I will find out!

Edited by khunjeng
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126926-guards-rolled/#findComment-2350720
Share on other sites

im just talking about rolling the guards to fit wide rims...not interested in flaring

anyone know if rolling the guards (may also be called lipping?) requires respraying?

my paint cracked. But its obvious that it will happen, i mean bending the inside lip up involves a 90 degree angle change for the steel& paint...paint is usually not that flexible....

i just used a little touchup paint over the cracks and where my shitty paint flaked off, you can't see it unless your looking up at the guards...so basically no visual change... :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126926-guards-rolled/#findComment-2350797
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...