Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

*sigh*

This saga has been continuing for too long now.

First things first, i hit a kangaroo (unavoidable, dont even worry about THAT dicussion i've had a million times) and it hit the sweet spot on my car to:

- destroy a headlight

- a fog light

- nearly rip the front kit off and crack it

- bent front right quarter panel

- munched the wiper reservoir and controls

- munched the battery without puncture

- and somehow gouged my radiator, which is why the car ended up on the tow truck =/

It took a week to get the car towed to the assesors, then to an insurer nominated panel repair place, then it took another week for the yard to call me and ask me to come down to sign a form because they refused to fix the fog lights because it wasn't stock. That was a huge argument because i refused, i wanted my car returned to the condition it was in, but aparrently they didn't do the repairs. So i told them to outsource the repair to the ricer yard i originally nominated to fix my car, and returning it to stock wasn't an option.

Fun, i had no idea the fogs on my 34 weren't stock, they looked professionally done, inside and out.

It's now taken another week for the insurer to contact me to let me know that it will be another 5 weeks, to total 8 weeks now, to have the parts from japan, and return my car. (Oh and the panel yard have agreed to do the fog lights after being told to do so by the insurer, funny that, i thought they couldn't do the repair?)

To give an idea of parts, it's not like it's a whole new engine or anything. It would be a new radiator, front bar, fog light, washer res and a handful of screws at the most, the rest is panel work =/

Really really upset right now, is this acceptable? Anyone else had to deal with this kind of timeframe?

Edit:

For the curious: The superficial damage, post-zipties

ps. not me in the picture =P

Edited by Einstein
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127502-insurance-repair-eta-2-months/
Share on other sites

They are 100% stock foglights...check my car out <====

Who are you insured with...sounds like the kind of run-around you get if your car is being assessed in the Fairfield head office of a certain insurance company!!!

They are 100% stock foglights...check my car out <====

Who are you insured with...sounds like the kind of run-around you get if your car is being assessed in the Fairfield head office of a certain insurance company!!!

HAH I thought so.

Also how'd you guess the insurer and the assessment centre? =)

They've been ok, it's more the auto repair shop they chose which are giving me the huge run around. I refuse to believe it's going to take them another 5 weeks.

HAH I thought so.

Also how'd you guess the insurer and the assessment centre? =)

They've been ok, it's more the auto repair shop they chose which are giving me the huge run around. I refuse to believe it's going to take them another 5 weeks.

There is usally a back order for parts in Japan, approx 2 weeks, then delivery 14-21 days, then the repair to put the car togther.

Don't forget before you leave look over your car carefully anything you are unhappy with don't sign anything until it is fixed.

There is usally a back order for parts in Japan, approx 2 weeks, then delivery 14-21 days, then the repair to put the car togther.

Don't forget before you leave look over your car carefully anything you are unhappy with don't sign anything until it is fixed.

Yep i will.

I dread the option they're going to get a stock bar minus fog light fittings and butcher that instead to make them fit.

Ugh

I guessed as I had a lot of trouble with the assessor when my previous R34 was stolen. I went there to see the car the first day they had it...told them it was a write-off...they took 4 weeks to make the same decision, then they held my premium and delayed my pay-out even though they had someone resposible for it. I got everything sorted the second I rang the GM, he couldn't understand why the people handling the claim had made such a balls-up, especially when the Detective in charge had already called weeks before to clear the situation up.

Reminds me of when someone rammed be from behind in my old U13 Atessa ages ago. Covered by the other party's insurer, I chose my repairer. All brand new panels and parts flown in from Japan (it was an import) and yes it took 2 full months to complete. Didn't really complain coz I was getting a full respray as well. But make sure they use new panels! as its an insurance claim, as long as you're paying the excess, make them pay for new parts and panels...no dodgy panel work! 2 months is reasonable I guess...took the bus to and from work for 2 whole months....good luck!

Thats bloody crazy. It took a total of 4 Days to get my car insurance threw after my EX ran into my fence when we she was having a crazy day lol

8 weeks my ass.... get a new insurance compeny.

Are you talking about 4 days for it to get repaired or 4 days to get it approved? Depends on the damage though...mine was 7k worth of replacement parts and labour...

Second time, scraped my front bar...dropped it in got it back the next day, fully resprayed bar good as new :happy:

Maybe so, but I've having my own battle with Shannons at the moment :D

When I called up for a quote on an S15 in the past, the person that called me is probably one of the rudest person I have ever called up for an insurance quote.

feel free to PM me Karen, as i've just signed up with them :|

I aint very bright.. but could someone PM me who this insurance company is?

ETA 2 months is pretty short.... I have a car on hail damage repair and I have waited since ~october last year, but she is going in next week finally.. yay

If you need to deal with Shannon's PM this guy:

_8OO5TED_

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=04&MID=979

He works for them and will do his best to help out.

When I called up for a quote on an S15 in the past, the person that called me is probably one of the rudest person I have ever called up for an insurance quote.

I aint very bright.. but could someone PM me who this insurance company is?

ETA 2 months is pretty short.... I have a car on hail damage repair and I have waited since ~october last year, but she is going in next week finally.. yay

I had the same deal with Shannons, they didnt want to even think about what a Stagea was....... But Boosted gave me a quite competitive quote....

The insurance company I am with , Unique Car Insurance, were excellent on my claim, had it inspected within a week and repairs apporved a day after inspection. Pity the panel beaters took 3mths+ to get it back to be, but there was a 3week break for xmas there, but still, cant knock the repair job, was top quality work, just had to wait for it.......

lol @ SHANNONS when i rang them for a quote they asked if i was a enthussiast i said i have a ac cobra replica /a speedway car/and 2 r33 skylines in the family does that qualify im 47 yrs old perfect driving record and i got knocked back cause i wasent in a car club was told to try just cars. how ever will go thru boosted when my current policy expires

lol @ SHANNONS when i rang them for a quote they asked if i was a enthussiast i said i have a ac cobra replica /a speedway car/and 2 r33 skylines in the family does that qualify im 47 yrs old perfect driving record and i got knocked back cause i wasent in a car club was told to try just cars. how ever will go thru boosted when my current policy expires

_8OO5TED_ used to be the guy who would do insurance quotes from Shannons, but he has changed his role. The guy to deal with now is GTRSOUL and his name is Chris.

These guys will be very helpful in arranging a quote for you.

feel free to PM me Karen, as i've just signed up with them :|

The issue I'm having with Shannons is with regard to a claim

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...