What Engine Oil?

[Busky2k]

Dropping the filter at 5k is a waste of time IMO. Unless you've got problems with your motor, it wouldnt even be 20% full of debris. Actually the longer you leave the filter on, its single pass efficiency increases (ie the better it actually filter out small particles) so I say, leave it on!

EDIT - I like this summary: "When time comes to change the oil at 3000-5000 miles they may just be getting in to their most effective part of their life cycle. Hence they never function optimally, or spent far less time in that range where small particle filtering is most effective."

Edited July 29, 2006 by Busky2k

[Cubes]

Cheerz big earz.

[Beer Baron]

cubes, the 300V will not dissapoint. it's some nice stuff. I'll post up the UOA results when i do it again.

[Busky2k]

Yep 300V has a stout additive package + high quality ester base oil = excellent recipe. Good thing its cheaper than Redline too. But for your average Skyline its wayyy overkill.

Beer Baron, when you do the UOA, make sure they test for all the elements Mo/Zn/Ca etc. TBN would be nice too.

Edited July 29, 2006 by Busky2k

[J_Red33]

Hmm I'll debate changing the filter ever 10,000. Personally I change it every 5000 kays as if I let it go to 10,000 I start to get noise from my lifters on startup due to them not getting oil fast enough. If that's not a indication of restriction nothing is.

I'm using the 4100 turbolight in my engine. I only leave it in for 5,000 kays myself. It is probably good for a fair bit more, but I like to make sure.

[Busky2k]

^^ Some filters use a poor quality anti-drain back valve to hold oil in the filter upon shutdown. I've seen countless Ryco ones do this after a while. Nissan OEM ones I have been good in this respect. Good filters use a silicone gasket (Eg Purolator PureOne) which lasts much longer. You can tell by if it has an orange valve at the bottom instead of black (ordinary nitrile rubber)

If the filter is clogged it goes into bypass so you wouldn't be able to tell if it was clogged or not without a pressure gauge plumbed in before and after the oil filter. And even then its difficult to tell.

I think this thread should be put in the maintenance section lol.

[subzeroR33]

Thanks to the advice from Busky, i now use a pure one oil filter and castrol edge 0w 40 best change i did from the 10w 60 edge. Motor is running cooler and starts better,

And in the gearbox i run redline shock proof its well worth it.

Edited July 30, 2006 by subzeroR33

[J_Red33]

^^ Some filters use a poor quality anti-drain back valve to hold oil in the filter upon shutdown. I've seen countless Ryco ones do this after a while. Nissan OEM ones I have been good in this respect. Good filters use a silicone gasket (Eg Purolator PureOne) which lasts much longer. You can tell by if it has an orange valve at the bottom instead of black (ordinary nitrile rubber)

If the filter is clogged it goes into bypass so you wouldn't be able to tell if it was clogged or not without a pressure gauge plumbed in before and after the oil filter. And even then its difficult to tell.

I think this thread should be put in the maintenance section lol.

Well you got me there mate. Yes I do use a Ryco, guilty as charged. Interesting little piece of info there. I think I'd better invest in a genuine filter, always assumed they would be too expensive since everything else that the dealers sell is . Oil change will be due in a couple weeks. Will get 1 for sure now & try it out.

[Busky2k]

Yeah I have a personal vendetta against Ryco. I mean what kind of company charges well over $10 for a filter and can't even put a plastic seal over the end? Go wipe your finger on the base plate of a Ryco off the shelf and look at the crap thats on your finger. Lovely.

I believe Purolator's Premium Plus or PureOnes are far better than Ryco's offerings. Nissan are good aswell but the price varies. My local dealer wants $19 for one, where as I've heard others get em for $9! For $15, the Purolator PureOne is a better choice for the money.

[Cubes]

Busky2k,

Head down to nissan they are around $8.98 or soemthing from memory, thats what my last one set me back.

I grabbed one to check it out, they do look very good quality and have a strange lip type seal.

However, I will be going back to the pureone filters.

[Busky2k]

$10 for an OEM? You must have a nice dealer. Main North Nissan want $19 for em lol. Then again the NVCS SR20 has a different thread to the RB so thus the part numbers are different. (and I believe most other post 1995 Nissans use the same filter)

And as everyone can see, the Nissan one has an orange ADBV, so its silicone and thus high quality. Good stuff. Not sure about that funny lip though, but it must work because the OEM one had one of the fastest times to get oil pressure after start up. Good ol Ryco was like 3 seconds lol.

[Cubes]

Yes first impression was it was high quality.

I buy from Grand Nissan.

http://www.grandnissan.com.au/

Good blokes down that way and know how to use a computer to track down what parts are required.

[TTT]

Just called my local Nissan..

Village Nissan

425 Elizabeth Ave

Redcliffe, QLD, 4020

(07)3883 0900

While he was looking up the part number that CUBES posted a picture of *15208-H8911AU*, he was making small talk about what I do for work.

When I told him I worked for QPS he made a joke and said “Oh I better give you a discount so you don’t send your work mates here aye”

Anyway, he ended up giving me a discount anyway..

He can supply them for $7.70

I’ll head on over to see him this Saturday.

If there are other QLD’ers that would be interested in the future, or now I guess, I might have a chat to him and see if he can do this for this price all the time for the car club.

[Trex101]

Busky2k,

Head down to nissan they are around $8.98 or soemthing from memory, thats what my last one set me back.

I grabbed one to check it out, they do look very good quality and have a strange lip type seal.

However, I will be going back to the pureone filters.

The actual Nissan part number for R32, R33 (RB25DET, RB26DETT) should be AY100-NS007 (15208-H8911) but has been supersede by AY100-NS005 which is used by R34 so both can be used.

[Cubes]

Maybe your part numbers over there are different to that of Australia's, Hence the AU on the end of the part number of the filter I was supplied.

[Trex101]

Maybe your part numbers over there are different to that of Australia's, Hence the AU on the end of the part number of the filter I was supplied.

Oh, these are Nissan japanese part number. I got those from my Nippon catalog.

[khunjeng]

good info.

I just used a Ryco and also thought it was kinda crap not having the seal on it. I did my FTO also and got a OEM one and it was a silicone one also...

damn...should have read this earlier...read up pplz!!

The oil filter sit shigher than the sum yeah?