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blitzxtr

By blitzxtr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

First problem i can see with that is the 90 degree silicone joiner from the turbo outlet...the radiating heat of the s/s manifold will weaken the back part of the joiner and it will eventually blow through :laugh:

Two race meets our one lasted, then i had to tig an ally 90 pipe on to replace it. Not having a go at your setup...it looks very nice. Just giving some warning. Being a street car, it might hold up alot longer, but my money is still on that it will go sometime. Maybe wrapping the manifold? Could help.

Very nice though :wub:

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Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

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Posted
First problem i can see with that is the 90 degree silicone joiner from the turbo outlet...the radiating heat of the s/s manifold will weaken the back part of the joiner and it will eventually blow through :teehee:

I would have to agree.

Also what exhaust manifold are you using?

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INASNT Grand Master

INASNT

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First problem i can see with that is the 90 degree silicone joiner from the turbo outlet...the radiating heat of the s/s manifold will weaken the back part of the joiner and it will eventually blow through :teehee:

Same thing happened to mine on front straight at PI.

Very hard to figure out when it first happens coz you can see the crack until you start pulling things off

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R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

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I would have to agree.

Also what exhaust manifold are you using?

I would also agree, based on personal expirience, i went through 2 90 degree bends :P

The heat from the exhaust housing just burned a hole through the silicone in a matter of weeks.

And fullboost @ 4500 :teehee:

I bet fullboost = 5psi

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blitzxtr Community Regular

blitzxtr

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I would also agree, based on personal expirience, i went through 2 90 degree bends :P

The heat from the exhaust housing just burned a hole through the silicone in a matter of weeks.

And fullboost @ 4500 :teehee:

I bet fullboost = 5psi

IT WAS 12 PSI

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Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
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You will need to replace that 90 degre bend as i have had the same issues...

I have also found that the chinese manifold ok to around the 280-300rwkw area but anything more than that and they will crack and bend. The stainless is just not strong enough to hold anymore heat...

Also you want to insulate your down pipe from the back of the turbo with heat tape to aviod affecting you air conditioning pipe work...

Other than that, she looks great...

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Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
Also you want to insulate your down pipe from the back of the turbo with heat tape to aviod affecting you air conditioning pipe work...

Other than that, she looks great...

The dump pipe is thermo wrapped....i tried to tell him to ceramic coat the manifold but he likes the bling factor. The manifold is no cheap "chinese knock-off" either its a well constructed local item with the runners extending right through the flange plate to the ports...it could have had a support tab welded to each runner for added strength though.

EDIT: many thanks to GCG who provided us with the "bolt on" water and oil feeds...."bolt on" yeah right!

Edited by DiRTgarage
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Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

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Posted

HAHAHAHA

GCG supplied me some 'bolt on' water and oil feeds....

The oil return is not really designed with a high mount in mind. As it touchs the manifold so im gonna have to run the turbo on a slight angle to make it all work with out burning anything... :whistling:

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Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

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The dump pipe is thermo wrapped....i tried to tell him to ceramic coat the manifold but he likes the bling factor. The manifold is no cheap "chinese knock-off"

Arhhh i could not see the rear... I just assumed it was not done...

PS. I am using a chinese manifold and she is working quite well but have been told not to push it too far...

Im only after 270 or 280rwkw anyways...

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