Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got bored with nothing to do today so I decided to do some polishing work to "further" dress up that engine bay :) Can never have enough bling under there to show the cops ~

Anyways, decided to finish off the half hearted job I did on the BOV pipe so I removed it and got to work... took the following steps:

1) Removed all the unsightly cast marks that do nothing but make it look ugly

2) Removed any unecessary chunks of metal used for mounting (only the ones not used)

3) Prepped the whole pipe's surface for polishing

4) Polished :happy:

5) Got very dirty :no::);)

Anyways, whole process took about 3 hours and the result came up really good :) Almost looks like a custom piece of metal was fabricated. I only did the bits that you can see from opening the bonnet and walking around it; didn't bother with the underneath side.

Here are some pics; comparision with the stock un-polished pipe that I had lying around the shop:

post-19974-1154261680.jpgpost-19974-1154261720.jpgpost-19974-1154261706.jpgpost-19974-1154261729.jpg

But then I got even more bored and decided to polish the standard BOV and fit that in atmo setup; getting sick of the flutter sound :) This is what I came up with...

post-19974-1154261921.jpgpost-19974-1154261930.jpgpost-19974-1154261939.jpg

Fitted it and hoped for the best... didn't really like the sound so I took it off and drilled 4 whistle holes into the chamber pipe... re-fitted and went for another drive; perfect!!! Nice and subtle pssshhhtt; can hardly hear it and with a bit of throttle control; can actually have it on/off :P

Anyways; just thought I'd tell my story for the day...

If anyone wants more info; just PM me :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128210-got-bored-did-some-polishing/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks mate... actually was my second polishing job of the day; first one was for one of our customers... he did it so it looked like a continuation of his FMIC pipe into the throttle body instead of looking real ugly from the top half upwards.

Started off using an angle grinder to get rid of any of the stuff I didn't want on the pipe; then used various types of discs to get it all smooth and ready for polishing.

Polishing was done on a bench grinder with different types of wheels and compounds... finished it off with a kerosene bath to remove any polish left (not good for engine) and voila!

Nice... that would've taken ages!!!

haha yer its not a quick process, ive had soo many mates come and see it and say oh ill do my rocker covers only to see them give up half way through and leave em dull as hell. should see how damn black my face and arms are after spending hours in front of the buffer.

worst part is they are spotless until u install them and then touch them with oil/greasy hands then it marks em and they require a rebuff :)

definately worth it in the end though, ive done, rocker covers, coil cover, alternator, intercooler, timing cover, intercooler piping, plenum, throttle bodies, throttle cable setup and anything else thats made of ally in the engine bay :)

thats actually my old cars engine bay its now got a single turbo so i had to put all those twin turbo pipes away for good after all that effort. those intake pipes are hpc coated not polished thats why they aint shiny.

so u gonna do your rocker covers and stuff now or u think its too much stuffing around???

Edited by CruiseLiner

who that looks great... i should polish tha standard one i got before i put it in the enginebay so it goes with everything else...

a front facing plenum looks awesome too. makes the engine bay look way cleaner without intercooler piping snaking its way everywhere...

My rocker covers are already done... most of the metal in the engine bay is done actually; only have the intake plenum and throttle body to be done and that's about all...

I've even going to the extent of polishing up all the brass bits (all the brackets etc) to make it all match up and shiny!

You are right, it does take ages - I guess we're lucky because we have all the tools etc from doing it as part of the business.

Did you use all different compounds to get that sort of a finish? I find that the compounds reduce the time involved by heaps...

Question: are your turbo comp covers all polished too :)

and how did you go about removing those cast marks or chuncks?

Guess if youre going too that much trouble to make it all nice and shiny wouldnt it be better while its in bits too get them anodised (assuming theyre an aluminium/aluminium alloy?) and keep corrosion off.

Never have too paint or polish them again either!

My rocker covers are already done... most of the metal in the engine bay is done actually; only have the intake plenum and throttle body to be done and that's about all...

I've even going to the extent of polishing up all the brass bits (all the brackets etc) to make it all match up and shiny!

You are right, it does take ages - I guess we're lucky because we have all the tools etc from doing it as part of the business.

Did you use all different compounds to get that sort of a finish? I find that the compounds reduce the time involved by heaps...

Question: are your turbo comp covers all polished too :)

and how did you go about removing those cast marks or chuncks?

sounds like u done most of it then :) no my turbo comp cover isnt done (wasnt done on the low mount twins either), my hks turbo is a funny rough finish and it says hks t04z on the front and polishing around letters is a pain and half done jobs look worse than not doing it at all.

this is the new engine bay (sorry the photo was taken with shockin light so its hard to see)

IMG_1516.jpg

i remove the rough casting marks with a round flapper sanding wheels on the drill, and sometimes a grinder with a flat sanding disk if its really rough. then use 240 grit sand paper, then 400 grit, then 600, and then 1200, then onto a hard buffing wheel, then a medium buffing wheel and then the polishing wheel (always using same compound on every step, white stuff, unsure of the name).

cheers

The anodized look doesn't really do it for me; too "dull" IMO. Another factor is that it costs too much to do.

Keeping the parts polished/shiny is easy - once every month just wipe everything down with some kerosene and it's like new!

You should look into the different compounds available for polishing wheels; you'll find it'll cut the times down and give you a better finish.

Also; since you're polishing it on the grinder - there's not really much need for the sand paper; it'll all get smooth once it's polished.

But I like your work; it's very very nice!

I'll take some photos of my engine bay and I'll post it up too :)

You should look into the different compounds available for polishing wheels; you'll find it'll cut the times down and give you a better finish.

Also; since you're polishing it on the grinder - there's not really much need for the sand paper; it'll all get smooth once it's polished.

But I like your work; it's very very nice!

I'll take some photos of my engine bay and I'll post it up too :)

can u get the names of the different types u use for different stages? ill be doing my other rb26/30 engine in the near future so any tips to shortcut things is a bonus :)

CruiseLiner: I'll talk to my business partner who purchases all our polishing supplies. I'll PM you if he tells me; he's pretty anal about the stuff - I've just picked it up from watching him do it all the time.

Munna1: Totally agree :)

Here are some really crap photos of some work we did for a R32GTR just before the customer sold it... I think the goal was to increase the "value" of the car somewhat, and/or make it so it's that bit more attractive?

post-19974-1154300678.jpg

post-19974-1154300748.jpg

post-19974-1154300781.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...