Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone.

A colleague at work has put a deposite down for a 1998 R33 GTS-T.

I was wondering if they exist, or has be had a dodge pulled on him.

I heard that the last run of 33's was in 1998 but they are hard to find.

Can anyone confirm or disprove this?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128386-1998-r33s-do-they-exist/
Share on other sites

Yes.. they do exist.. I have one + i think there is a couple of other floating around..

made in 05/98

Most are 40th anniversary, in fact haven't seen one that wasn't.. I would def check in Nissan FAST - this will tell you exactly when it was made (what batch)..

They have a black CAS

That's about the only way to visually identify them..

Edited by Links

True, they exist.

I have one too :P

As already said 1998 is the 40th anniversary.

Should be extra sewn on badges on the front seats

And matching emblims on the C-pillar

Other than that, same as a 96-97 Series II

My avatar shows the outside badge

Yes.. they do exist.. I have one + i think there is a couple of other floating around..

made in 05/98

Most are 40th anniversary, in fact haven't seen one that wasn't.. I would def check in Nissan FAST - this will tell you exactly when it was made (what batch)..

They have a black CAS

That's about the only way to visually identify them..

hahah shit your 33 is younger than my 34 !!!

mines 03/98

Yes.. they do exist.. I have one + i think there is a couple of other floating around..

made in 05/98

Most are 40th anniversary, in fact haven't seen one that wasn't.. I would def check in Nissan FAST - this will tell you exactly when it was made (what batch)..

They have a black CAS

That's about the only way to visually identify them..

feel like buying some cams off me? :P

I have one aswell. I was curious to why the 40th Anniversary skyline version cost a fair bit if you were to buy one?

Any differences?

Visual differences, they had an optional rear spolier (GTR type) and an optional front bar (again GTR look-a-like) as well as badges.

They also came in limited colours like Midnight Purple Pearl II

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
×
×
  • Create New...