Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Diff =/= Final Drive.

Final drive ratios for All 32 GTST's manual or auto are the same as R33 Auto Ratio (4.3:1) Manual 33 GTST's run a 4:1:1 final drive ratio.

The differential bolts inside of the crownwheel(Parts of the final drive) and this gives you your LSD. When you buy a Nismo LSD kit you will not get a new final drive crown and pinion so your ratio will stay the same.

Well there ya go, cheers mate :thumbsup:

Hello!

Would greatly appreciate some help. I think this is the correct VIN. (hopefully)

The car is imported from Britain to Sweden. I don't know if that information is needed.

#WGNC34018235

Cheers guys!

Edited by Miltuun

Thanks for that! does this program do anything else? or just provide those details?

Can provide part numbers and Model Options. Miguelone can translate better than I can.

WGNC34129431 Please. Thank you very much in advance!

Wow! It's a regular Stag Fest lately. :D

post-78856-0-38800400-1357812386_thumb.jpg

Edited by Not a Pulsar

Wow! It's a regular Stag Fest lately. :D

Hah yeah I saw another Stagea member post it in the stag section and he got directed to here so I thought, why not !

I had trouble with fast before as I run win764bit. Now have just found fast 2010 64bit compatible here - http://club-s12.org/retro4/index.php?topic=32213.0

download will be finished in 4 mins

Thanks for the quick response!

Nice one. Ima needing a more recent 32bit version. :(

I am not sure if I misunderstand you. Are you saying that it won't work for you ? It's 32 and 64bit compatible incase you thought it was only 64bit.

Sorry if I misunderstood. It's the sad smiley that has me all confused :D

More recent US version using older Jap files will be the same as using the older version though. Have a look around for the 2009 Jap version for the catalogues and use the current english version program. Works the best.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...