Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cold region package is heated mirrors etc.

Hi (00)Skyline(00),

I think Miguelone is correct with the mirrors.

The car has heated seats too. I'll try to upload some pics but I'm a bit of a noob in that regard.

I see, it would defiantly come in handy for the winter.

Sounds good :)

Ok, so i have done a revs check on this car and its showing it was complied in 05/1990 and that its a vspec?

V spec were made 93?

Anyone know whats the deal here?

Yes, V-Spec's were made in 1993.

Post the Model Number and let me have a look.

It's the number starting with "KBNR32..." Under the Chassis Number on the blue plate.

BNR32-008320

KBNR32RXFSLTAA

Im not sure why its showing the compliance date as the build date also, through the revs check?

REVS is wrong.

Compliance Date can not equal the build date... That's impossible as it was built in 05 - 1990 and only just came to AUS.

Compliance Date usually refers to when the car was complied to AUS Standards / ADR Laws.

Your model number checks out to be a Base Model R32 GTR, made in 05 - May.

KBNR32RXFSLTAA - "X" signifies it is a GTR (16 Inch Wheels) = Base Model.

If the "X" was a "B" then it would = V-Spec (17 Inch Wheels)

On a side note: KBNR32RXFSLTAA, "L" = Fog Lights from factory... You have fog lights on the car?

Is this genuine V-Spec?

Vin-BNR32-302657 (Chassis No)

Model-KBNR32RBFS AA

These numbers are on the Blue Compliance plate from Japan I believe.

Thanks in advance.

Edited by glaze

BNR32-008320

KBNR32RXFSLTAA

Im not sure why its showing the compliance date as the build date also, through the revs check?

Someone messed up when they did the registration. See it on imports a lot. Either build date is compliance date or compliance date is build date lol.

Is this genuine V-Spec?

Vin-BNR32-302657 (Chassis No)

Model-KBNR32RBFS AA

These numbers are on the Blue Compliance plate from Japan I believe.

Thanks in advance.

Anypne help me out with this? I have done some more research and I am 99% sure it is a VSpec, but just want it confirmed:) Thx

Is this genuine V-Spec?

Vin-BNR32-302657 (Chassis No)

Model-KBNR32RBFS AA

These numbers are on the Blue Compliance plate from Japan I believe.

Thanks in advance.

Anypne help me out with this? I have done some more research and I am 99% sure it is a VSpec, but just want it confirmed:) Thx

Vin- 6U9000BNR32302657

Eng-RB26 078615A

Yeah, the VIN and Model Number it checks out to be a V-Spec:

VIN.jpg

Sweet! Thx (00)SKYLINE(00). Put a deposit on this tonight and will have in my hands next weekend.

Sounds good, post some pics :)

Visibly you should be able to tell in stock form:

Brembo Front and Rear Calipers.

17 x 7 +20 or 17 x 8 +30 BBS Wheels (Check the centre of the wheels)

V-Spec Sticker on the boot lid.

A retuned ATTESA E-TS system but that you wouldn't be able to tell straight up.

It doesn't come with Rear Brembo's unfortunately or stock wheels. Will start the search for these ASAP;)

Interesting... So it's got stock Brembos on the front but not on the rears...

So what's on the rears? Just "Nissan" (Sumitomo) calipers?

  • 3 weeks later...

Can someone please check

BNR34-001021

Thanks in advance!

VIN.jpg

Is it possible to get late KV36 model checked which doesnt come up in FAST system. KV36-400752

Thanks in advance

I am getting mix of 5 results but all the listings say the build date is December 2008...

I am getting mix of 5 results but all the listings say the build date is December 2008...

Thanks Mate,

Does it show what factory options it has and all like the FAST system or just the build date? Build date of Dec 2008 sounds right.

Edited by rawzz_v35

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...