Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They make bodykits out of mesh?

Fibreglass is cheap and light, but in most cases very brittle, after a while you'll get cracks and it will look like shit.

The OEM front bars are the strongest, because they bend, instead of cracking

FRP (fibreglass reinforced plastic) is what you should look for, but it's a lot more expensive than fibreglass, and usually only is available if you buy the original kit from japan

stock bumpers = polyurethane

of course fibreglass doesn't crack unless its been stressed...

but there's no doubt that its brittle.. even the stress of the chassis flexing when cornering over a long period of time can show on thin bumpers...

FRP sounds great.. anyone in oz make kits out of this??

you could probably get a kit made out of carbon fibre, but they would be weaker than glass.

a lot of mass produced glass kits are made really thin to save money, so they break easier.

the advantage of glass is that it can be repaired easy. i bought a front bar from a wreckers for $100 that was cracked down 1 side and it cost me $50 to fix it and repaint it (did it myself). the plastic kits cost a bit to get plastic welded, but they don't brake as easy to start with.

Personaly I love fiberglass kits as most aftermarket kits are fiberglass. I ve just finshed making a veilside kit fit a carmy 91 model (carby fed ) . It took 8 kilos of fiberglass but it looks very different .

Is anyone interented in seeing pictures?

why?

Well its not my job to ask why, it was brought to me and he asked me to make the modifications to make it fit to his car. I dont get to pick the cars i work on, its my job to fit the bodykit to it .

And also why not?

Im in the same boat and searching for a S15 kit perhaps the only way to get quality is to buy an origianal japanese kit ? im thinking about getting a kit from jetspeed or mxfly if all there kits are made of frp.

If this isnt a good idea feel free to pm a reason

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...