Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was just there and booked my car in for a new exhaust. The middle muffler is to low and the whole exhaust is to loud, so he is removing the muffler and making me up a bolt on tip so once im done i can bolt mine back on. So yeah thanks but it will be sorted.

not true, i have a muffler i got made up from the guys at city exhaust that passed over the pits quite well. i'd loan it to you but it either A) probably wouldn't fit as most exhausts are different and B) i don't own the car or the muffler anymore, but could get it in a week or so.

they charged me $160 for a muffler that just bolts on where your existing muffler is, 2 bolts to remove and replace quiet muffler. go and have a talk to them, they're good at fixing that sort of stuff.

i meant the little ones you stick in the end of the cannon that look like a funnel. not a whole muffler.

Ive got a custom tip for any one with a 3.5" exhaust, will get you over pits.

Hey can anyone confirm one of those licencers can get you past rta/dickson rego?

I just got defected today, got 93.6db at 3,200 RPM and didn't think to ask.

If not hope someone can lend me one of their stock R32 GTR exhaust for a week or so.

  • 2 weeks later...

Did they seriously defect you for 93.6db!!!!!!!!!!!

I got done in my old car for too loud and it was 107db.

the bloke said if it was 100 or less he would have let me off

but it was way higher.

he also said that the limit is 95db

Did they seriously defect you for 93.6db!!!!!!!!!!!

I got done in my old car for too loud and it was 107db.

the bloke said if it was 100 or less he would have let me off

but it was way higher.

he also said that the limit is 95db

the limit in ACT for a Skyline (its based on cyl's and weight iirc) is 92db.

the limit in ACT for a Skyline (its based on cyl's and weight iirc) is 92db.

Yer, I had to take it over the pits at dickson. but they showed me this spread sheet that they were going off.

if it was a post 1983 car, 6 cyl. maximum was 90db at 3200rpm. I think most 83 cars you can have it louder.

So no one's got an exhuast I can borrow for a couple of days or so? might have to resort to welding a silencer on the the exhuast or going to the wreckers.

honestly man, when you get the cash, get a garage to build you a turbo back exhaust that is legal and performance orientated - saves a ton of time.

The exhaust on mine is *magic* - noticably different note to most skylines i've heard, quieter that any i've heard at idle, and louder than my mates at full noise.

sounds beautiful imho.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

been a while since ive been here but i really like this idea so i thought i maybe some help.

Car: r33 gtst

Year: 1995

Parts: stock springs (in the next week or two), stock intercooler, stock BOV

Conditions/Price: no condition as long as i get it back and that if i ever need help then i get help but not by force :)

  • 3 weeks later...
Need exhaust silencer ASAP!!!!! I just failed for being to low and might be to loud. Im going to raise my suspention now (well try) but i really need a silencer.

Help Please :O

Hey mate, i got a better solution, i read somewhere a few days ago there is a little thing u buy stick it in yr exahst system and its basically a controlled butterfly that controlls how loud yr exauhst is..might be an option i am getting one soon...when i get my car complied..

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...