Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Not interested in changing the turbo atm, just looking to make what i have work.

I was hoping for over 300 but if its not going to get there then im thinking i may as well go back to standard.

log style manifolds are crud

try and find a hks cast low mount manifold. They look stock enough

But then all the intake and dump needs to be made again as it dosnt put the turbo in the factory location.

log style manifolds are crud

try and find a hks cast low mount manifold. They look stock enough

But lets just get back to the requirements at hand for a second…

1. Tight budget – so clearly no $1400 manifold manifold, custom piping, new dump etc

2. As factory as possible appearance

3. No more than 300rwkw

As to wether it’s the best performing setup, giving the best performance etc etc - really is not the question or issue here at all.

So who cares of its “crud”. It’s been proven to work & the stock manifold fits those requirements perfectly.

Lithium is making 300rwkw on a stock manifold with a 3076 .82 internally gated on a 200,000km motor.

Seems to work for him, and drives as smoothly as my 77,000km motor.

He had one of those exact manifolds on his for a while. I think he got it for quite cheap so tried it. Made the car sound pretty awesome, but blew the welds at the flange after a while so went back to the stock.

I think it had something to do with this:

lol

He had one of those exact manifolds on his for a while. I think he got it for quite cheap so tried it. Made the car sound pretty awesome, but blew the welds at the flange after a while so went back to the stock.

How much of a difference was there, both on paper and seat of the pants?

Seat of the pants, basically none - which actually surprised me. The most power I have made on paper was with the stock cast manifold I put back on after the stainless one failed. It SOUNDED like something more serious with the stainless manifold though, which gave an unjustified sensation of speed.

Lol all this talk about 3071/76/35r....

he wants a high flow or a 2530?

Stock manifold is fine...+ heat shields + factory EVERYTHING = you get to smile when you get asked to pop your bonnet..

ummmmmmm 2530??? where did you get that from, i have a 3540!

Lol all this talk about 3071/76/35r....

he wants a high flow or a 2530?

Stock manifold is fine...+ heat shields + factory EVERYTHING = you get to smile when you get asked to pop your bonnet..

It pays to read the whole thread, the first post was 5 years ago, i chose to bring it up again as it has relevant information and was interested to see if there has been any definitive answers gained in the 5 yrs since this was posted, its also relevant in that its the exact same manifolds being talked about today as it was 5 yrs ago when the thread was posted!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...