Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sydneykid, feel free to PM me your honest opinion :P

I think we would all like to hear it. Whats it like on the street, does it just burst into wheel spin as soon as you get on boost? looks like it would be a handful to drive fast.

Dont get me wrong, i wasnt trying to put a downer on your results mate.. And im all for wheelspin.

My old 180 had 360rwhp and spun in 3rd coming onto boost on some surfaces.... but thought in 4th and with 197rwkw (or any car that spins a lot in 4th for that matter) you might want to look at your setup.

As fun as wheelspin is, nothing feels as awesome when it hooks up and slams you hard into the seat.

ok, the car is a drift car, not s street car, so i was after a fairly sharp torque range in the midrange for responce and the ability to keep the tyres smoking after entering a high speed corner while slowing down for a slow speec hair pin. XSomething a stock Rb20 doesnt do well.

not too fussed about making much more peak power... would rather have reliability and midrange torque then massive peak HP.

cheers

Simon

Dont get me wrong, i wasnt trying to put a downer on your results mate.. And im all for wheelspin.

My old 180 had 360rwhp and spun in 3rd coming onto boost on some surfaces.... but thought in 4th and with 197rwkw (or any car that spins a lot in 4th for that matter) you might want to look at your setup.

As fun as wheelspin is, nothing feels as awesome when it hooks up and slams you hard into the seat.

me = 270rwkw + no loss of traction coming on boost in 2nd/3rd at all running 245 streeters.... then i went to 300+ and only then did it squirm. Gotta control the right foot :(

That was a nice push into the seat.

guess thats the joy of linear power rather than a light-switch.

but a light-switch turbo would be much better suited to drift one would think. But i guess you can argue either way

... whereas with a bb turbo it would be more gradual resulting in less wheelspin.

Thats funny as the cars with big BB turbo that i have been in kick you in the guts and knock your teeth out! Then my turbo for isntance seems a bit duller when it ramps onto boost.

Perhaps mine has been tuned with the fact its rwd and i go to the track in mind??? I dont know, but the supposed hard boosting trust turbo on mine doesnt seem to hit hard...i want to scare myself when it comes onto boost , who cares if its slower :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...