R32 Gtr Oil Pump Fault

[map7]

I've got a early R32 GTR 89' model and sometimes the oil gauge will sit on zero for a little while then jump between to 1.5 or 4. The light does not come on though.

Could it be the gauge at all?

Should I pull over and turn the car off immediately when it sits on zero?

Then should I start it again and if it's back to normal keep driving?

Roughly how much does it cost to replace the oil pump (including removing the engine)?

What upgrade options do i have on the oil pump? brands/models?

I saw a 2nd hand Tomei Oil Pump for sale a little while ago for $600 are these any good?

Is there a way to install an external oil pump so that if this happens again the motor doesn't have to come out?

If i do have to take the engine out is there anything which I should consider changing which wouldn't cost too much whilst the engine is already out?

The only mods the car has is:

- 3" exhaust

- high-flow cat

- pod filters

[Dahtone Racing]

sounds like a gauge issue to me

if you had no oil pressure i couldnt see your engine lasting too long

if you upgrade go for a JUN crank collar and an N1 oil pump

[map7]

Should I install another oil pressure gauge so I can test it?

[Cubes]

I too have this issue.

Have had it with the old motor as well, the new motor was new running a different oil pump etc.

On the dyno mine always appears to be fine so I can't get it tested.

It has been suggested it 'may' be a sticky relief valve as when mine does it a couple of quick free rev's to 5500rpm+ has the oil pressure sitting normal again. But as it was the same on the old motor it buggers me. Most likely the guage and the car has done quite a few kays.

[map7]

I will install a new gauge to monitor the situation a bit better.

Yeah as soon as it sits on zero I give it a few revs and it starts to move again, weird.

[cowie165]

if you upgrade go for a JUN crank collar and an N1 oil pump

Great advice. You can buy a new N1 oil pump for <$500 so I'd do that rather than spend on a branded item that does the same thing. I'd also include an oil filter relocator and change every rubber hose you can find, in particular the heater hoses.

If you have the money, changing turbos and dump pipes is a lot easier with the motor out, of course.

When oil pressure senders die, do they read zero or does the gauge just become unreliable? I hope you can sort it out mate, it'd be good to hear your progress.

[cowie165]

Oh yeah, forgot to add. There is a DIY RB26 removal on SAU. If you can use a spanner but it's your first time, I think it was around 15h each way. If you're paying someone, I've read figures of $600 for R & R labour.

[Cubes]

Be aware to throw a jun or proengines crank collar on the crank it requires removal of the crank.

[map7]

I had a chat with my mechanic and he said that first they'll check the oil pressure with a tool they have then the options are:

get the oil pump fixed with a standard one = estimate $2500

engine rebuild = estimate $8000

These are rough estimates. Then whilst I have the engine out I might as well upgrade a few parts whilst I'm in there and that's extra cash.

I take it in tuesday week to get the car checked out then I'll have an answer to what I have to do. In the mean time i'm driving it, but only if I really have to which might be once this week. I should fix this before the engine blows because if i just wait till the engine blows then it could do a lot of damage and may harm the block. Do you guys think it's best to get on top of this before the engine blows or just keep driving it and get a rebuild when the it does blow?

[arep3]

i got the same year car with the same problem. if the oil press. light comes on, kill the motor straight away. alls my problem is is the pressure switch that bolts onto the side of the oil filter assembly (stock oil cooler) $10 to $20 for a 2nd hand pressure switch from a wreckers or get a new 1. not that hard a job to replace if u can access a hoist but its a bitch to get to. my oil press. gauge sits just above 1... oil pressure has been tested and its fine.

still, a new oil pump is always a good idea considering the age of the car

maybe an aftermarket pressure gauge and switch is a good idea.

good luck

[cowie165]

I had a chat with my mechanic and he said that first they'll check the oil pressure with a tool they have then the options are:

get the oil pump fixed with a standard one = estimate $2500

engine rebuild = estimate $8000

These are rough estimates. Then whilst I have the engine out I might as well upgrade a few parts whilst I'm in there and that's extra cash.

I'd be very surprised if it is anything other than the pressure sender unit. It's an electrical gauge that will fluctuate as the voltage varies and will drop to zero if the voltage does the same.

WIth regard to your rebuild/repair quotes, the the oil pump R+R sounds sorta close but the engine rebuild figure seems steep. Remember you don't HAVE to used forged pistons, blah blah if you aren't after a powerhouse motor. If you are happy with it as it is or the generally accepted 250awkw performance then you prob don't need too much in the way of parts, other than your oil pump. When my 89 RB26 goes the way of the buffalo I'm not going to race out for stuff I don't need. I have seen invoices for $4000 rebuilds. Yeah I know there are a lot of guys that can argue (and well) that you NEED to spend >$8000 for valve springs, rod bolts, sump extensions, etc but it's up to you. Other than a crank collar and maybe a sump baffle, do you need much more?

Anyway dude, I hope it is sorted cheaply and painlessly, I didn't mean to rant on like I did. Perhaps ask around - RB26 rebuilds are becoming relatively common so it shouldn't be too hard to touch base with someone in Vic that has done a few and could confirm the quotes.

Please make sure you post what the mechanics oil pressure gauge says

[32R]

The question is if your going to remove everything(crank included) are you really going to put it back in without rebuilding the rest.

My sender has a mind of its own too and I'd say like cowie thats your prob.

[yaf28f]

Just to let you guys know my experience.

I have a 89 R32 GTR aswell and was worried about the oil pressure needle on the dash that quite often goes to 0, but the light doesn't come on.

after some research about bad senders, I got a T-joint thingo and attached an after market oil pressure gauge on the normal sender . the after market oil pressure reads at around 25psi all the time, while the dash gauge moves around.

So if you have the same problem as me, it's most likely the factory sender.

[map7]

Guess what.

All you guys are right it's the Sender unit. I'm so happy

I wasn't ready to pay for a rebuild and even engine removal sounds scary.

Thanks guys for your input, it made me start to question the sender unit and sure enough that was the problem. The mechanic said their pressure sensor tool showed that the oil pressure was a steady 4.5, whilst the gauge was moving all over the place.

I get my car tomorrow and I'm going for a cruise.

I think my car has been off the road more than on the road since I've owned the fantastic beast. Ah well it's worth it, because every time I jump in that car it's f'n awsome. Instead of paying all this money to fix things I should be modding the crap out of it . Next step I want a PowerFC.

[cowie165]

Great result.

Thanks for reporting back.

[Duncan]

Good to hear!

But are you going to replace the sender or get an aftermarket oil guage? since now you won't know if yuo do really have oil pressure problems......$200 might save your motor one day

[Cubes]

Good stuff... Once again, thanx for reporting back, all too often people sort the issue and forget about their thread.