Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got some fitment issues up the front. 20 * 8.5 +25 rims.

The wheel is physically too large in rolling diameter and is rubbing on the top suspension arm. So I need to hit the drawing board.

Anyway the test fit...

upload1o.jpg

img1129d.jpg

What are you guys thinking? Improvement or not? I am going to slam the car back to the ground with the new rims, remove the wing, and try and line up a carbon fibre duck wing and roof spoiler.

I think the new rims need a new look...

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

yea they look hotttt,

slam to the ground, get the duck lip if you want, but i dont know about the roof spoiler i dont really like the look of them

but definently make these rims fit and slam the car to the ground :D

what size tyre on the front?

i like it but i dont know how you'll get around the front lip been a mile from the road purely because of the size of the rim you wont be able to reduce it much.

still nice wheels an all.

ROOF SPOILERS ARE FKN AWESOME.

Yeh im worried this suspension arm might be the death of me!

I took some pics to show it. Hopefully with a 5mm spacer on the front and a stretch say, 215/30/20 on the front. But turning still might pose problems, and I think full lock is out of the question lol.

But I mean come on bulk people have fitted 20s before to 33's (all be it chromies :(), surely there is an easy solution. Aftermarket suspension arm (thats less bulky)?

Oh and the tire on the front atm is a 245/35/20 I think. I wont go that wide on the front with the new tire, which will save me some space... but the new tire will have tread aswell (where thisone is down to the wire), so i fear it will even itself out abit there!

sky121001.jpg

The Cannon Exhaust is about to go though. Looking to cut the tip off and weld something a bit quieter on the end to try and get a crisper less droney note

cool lower lip on the bar man, wheres that from?? accentuates the front even more than normal...which im starting to love :)

cool lower lip on the bar man, wheres that from?? accentuates the front even more than normal...which im starting to love :)

Just Jap. Took a lil bit of trimming and adding to fit. Otherwise it aint too bad. Just replaces the factory lip. Gives it more of a sporty look to the front without looking over the top whilst keeping the strength and fit of the factory frontbar.

Luke

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...