Jump to content
SAU Community

9" Diff Centre To Suit Independant Rear End.

BezerkR32
 Share

Recommended Posts

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Someone told me they know of one to suit skyline.... thats the one im looking for.

Not much help but they do make em.

http://www.difftechnics.com.au/gto_nine_irs.html

Were any XE or XF Falcons IRS?

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

why would you want to do that?

if you want a diff wich is much stronger just use a z32 tt diff.

r220. 220mm vs 9 inch 228mm.

it will bolt up using gts4 driveshafts and WONT BREAK. not sure about the axels but.

MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

how much power are you running?

r200 diff's and r32 driveshafts/tailshafts have a reputation for handling as much power as you can throw at it.... 9 inch conversions are very uncommon because the stock diff is strong enough...

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted
how much power are you running?

r200 diff's and r32 driveshafts/tailshafts have a reputation for handling as much power as you can throw at it.... 9 inch conversions are very uncommon because the stock diff is strong enough...

Stuart's car will make a shitload more power and torque than my car and I explode CV's and snap axles 2 at a time with 265kW.

R33 GTST R200 LSD's and std axles = Rubbish in my opinion. The only reason people say they're 'strong enough' is because 99.9999999% of Skyline drivers ESPECIALLY the ones with big HP cars NEVER race their cars hard. They're all soft - especially the GTR drivers :D

Adrian

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted
Hmmm.... Z32 R220 with standard gts4 axels or braced 9" with billet axles.

Tough decisions...

Adrian

oh, im sorry. lets see. a diff that bolts up.? or a bulky 1950's based bigger is better truck diff? not that theres anything wrong with them. just try finding one that has a nodular iron case and doesnt use a floating inner axle design.

il choose the r220 and perhaps using shortened r33gtr 31spline axles. hks and pretty much any other 1000hp drag gtr seems to do ok

worst case just get some "billit axles made to suit the diff that fits? or you could try and cut n shut a 9 inch.

dave

  • 2 weeks later...
2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted
but... if you were seriouse you could probably convert the car to a 4 link set up. that would work best. and the nine inch will be very well suited

It's got nothing to do with being serious or not. It comes down to what you can do in the class you want to race in.

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for all the info guys, i am running the car in Oz so 4 link is out and dont have spare 10k to throw at it. I have the R32 GTR diff and shafts fitted, sound like they may be up to it, ill just put a mechanical centre in once i know what gear ratio i want. TRPs R32 skyline has given me some faith.

TRP's R32 ran mid 9's off transbrake with an s15 centre and gtr driveshafts, don't know how much faster you want to go.
Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
Thanks for all the info guys, i am running the car in Oz so 4 link is out and dont have spare 10k to throw at it. I have the R32 GTR diff and shafts fitted, sound like they may be up to it, ill just put a mechanical centre in once i know what gear ratio i want. TRPs R32 skyline has given me some faith.

Wise move Stewie...no point trying to re-invent the wheel

Gts-t Grand Master

Gts-t

Posted
Posted
Stuart's car will make a shitload more power and torque than my car and I explode CV's and snap axles 2 at a time with 265kW.

R33 GTST R200 LSD's and std axles = Rubbish in my opinion. The only reason people say they're 'strong enough' is because 99.9999999% of Skyline drivers ESPECIALLY the ones with big HP cars NEVER race their cars hard. They're all soft - especially the GTR drivers :)

Adrian

Adrian, what do you mean by race hard??

thanks :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...