Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For those who have R32 GTS-t, I was told some R32 GTS-t were delivered with smaller rear disc (but I was guessing this maybe the non-turbo), so please measure your R32 rear discs and tell me if you have the:

- 266mm disc 7690S slot or 7690G dimpled, or

- 297mm disc 908S slot or 908G dimpled (same as R33 gts-t rears)

  • Replies 245
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

OK GUYS...

They have branches in every major capitals and you can pickup at your local branches, or I can ask them to quote on shipping to each state.

For the time being, have a look at the spreadsheet and let me know if there is any issues.

All of you in the spreadsheet list should have received a pm from me containing the same info regarding part no, size and discounted price. So if you cannot open the spreadsheet, don't worry it's not the end of the world!

And for the person in this forum who asked if he can buy a blank disc for his car, unfortunately the answer is no. You have to buy a whole crate of blank disc if you really want.

I will keep this group buy on until Friday then while I get the shipping quotes and then we'll start finalising payment terms. For those who have not given me their Name & Delivery Details (in case they need to ship out), please pm me with your details. Your name & address will not be disclosed to any other 3rd party not related to this Group Buy activity.

Regards,

Rianto

... and it is ok to cancel or change your mind at this stage. i.e. if you want to upgrade to grooved / dimpled rotors or downgrade to slotted only for any reasons, i.e. price.

OH AND THOSE WITH R32 GTS-T i am sure your rear rotors are the same with R33 GTS-t but please can you double check if your rear rotors are 297mm or the smaller 266mm (I was guessing this is non-turbo) - it is best to be safe now rather than sorry later if it's too big to fit your caliper.

OH AND THOSE WITH R32 GTS-T i am sure your rear rotors are the same with R33 GTS-t but please can you double check if your rear rotors are 297mm or the smaller 266mm (I was guessing this is non-turbo) - it is best to be safe now rather than sorry later if it's too big to fit your caliper.

Your doing a great job so far, keep up the good work. :(

one thing though, if the front rotors on an r32gtst are 280mm diameter, you wouldn't think the rears are going to be 297mm, i'll try and measure mine tonight because the prices are that good i will probably end up buying fronts and rears :ermm:

edit: ok well i checked last night and the rears are in fact 297mm.

Edited by R32gts-t

It still make sense to have slightly bigger rotors at the rear for R32 gtst as the RB20 is a lot lighter than RB25 and it's a RWD.

When I cross-check with DBA catalogs, R32 GTS-t are listed as 280mm fronts and 297mm rears.

If any of you prefer pickup there are locations as follow...

http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/contact.htm

Just let me know which one you prefer, pm me, please it's hard to track replies over 5-6 pages of thread here.

If any of you prefer pickup there are locations as follow...

http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/contact.htm

Just let me know which one you prefer, pm me, please it's hard to track replies over 5-6 pages of thread here.

Curious as to when payment is due for this? and Account details etc.

Can you get ER34 GTT single turbo front slotted rotors

These are 310mm, not the same as R33 GTST as the RDA listing suggests

If you can confirm they can supply them, I will have a set

Thanks

according to DBA catalog R34 GTT can use the same front 296mm with r33 but RDA did say there are some 310mm which is harder to get, I will ask again.

how about a set of fronts (slotted only, no dimples please) for a BNR32 GTR. They are 296mmX32mm?

thanks. :laugh:

Yes, they are 296mmx32mm - $<<price removed pm to GB members only>> GB price incl GST.

shozbot, which one u're after, I'll let u know. a few ppl have probs with the zip file but others dont.

this forum don't allow me to upload excel.

sorry I had the . and the ? the wrong way around! I know they are 296X32 I was just making sure you got the right ones!

Please put me down for a set. :O

shozbot, which one u're after, I'll let u know. a few ppl have probs with the zip file but others dont.

this forum don't allow me to upload excel.

324 x 30 front and 297 x 18 rear both slotted & dimpled. Are they the ones that are "gold passivated" ?

Thanks

What i know here is 7701S fronts (324mmx32mm R33GTR) and 908S rear (R33 GTS-t 297mm) if that's the one you're after 7701S = $<<price removed pm to GB members only>>, 908S = $<<price removed pm to GB members only>>, all group buy prices including GST.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...