Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive got about 10 of the 50 remaining, which will be taken by the remaining people on the list (on here and pga). do u want me to add u to the list? (u might get in if people are too slow/dont want one). otherwise next batch will be around january

Yesss please... arghh i didnt see them on pga >.<

  • Replies 279
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

This is mine set up on the dash. You can see most of all the dash displays etc and its not distracting because the ECU display is not bright but perfectly readable. The cables can be tucked neatly under the ledge into the steering column cavity and through the inside of the dash so are not untidy and the RS232 plug can reach through to the pas seat to a laptop OK. I only used a small pad of velcro at each end as its so strong and makes the unit hard to remove if you use the full length.

post-12111-1164153443.jpg

The photo is chopped tthough as the flash was stuffing it up. An extremely handy device but I still am not sure what values I should be seeing at initial power on and then at idle etc.

Peter can you list some typical values of all sensors?

batt: <12 car not on, ~14v running

eco: 99.9 (infinite) when car not moving, 20->99 under acceleration, <20 cruising (assuming set up in options)

inj: ~5-10% on cold warmup, 0-3% normal idle, 3-100% depending on load. 100% peak doesnt necessarily mean your injectors have maxxed out, you need to hop on a dyno to work out this

timing: anything thats BTDC, big jumps down from like 30 to 3/5 under load may indicate pinging/det (logging will help here). if timing jumps around from ~3 to 15 or so at idle, your closed TPS switch may not be staying shut properly.

aac - auxiliary air control, lets air into engine bypassing throttle, will be high (~90) on startup/AC on, but should fall to around 20-40 when running normally

o2: 0.3v till sensor warms up (30s), then swinging between 0.1->0.9v and back continually when cruising. from memory, 1v = rich, 0v = lean. on decel/engine breaking will probably go lean, and rich on acceleration

engine temp: "warmup" time typically to around 60-65C mark, then normal operation. be worried if it gets close to 100, but in low/mid 90s is generally fine.

AFM: generally corresponds to load of engine, 0.5v when not running, 1.0-1.2 idle (after warmup), if this hits 5v then you're probably getting close to peak power for current AFM (should determine this on a dyno).

tps: ~0.5v closed, ~4.5v WOT, and linear in between (roughly)

Hey Peter, my unit just arrived, thanks mate!

I haven't used it as yet but I have to say I'm very impressed with the unit itself, and your packaging. Very professional.

Can't wait to try it out

Dane

  • 2 weeks later...

i may have a couple of left over enclosures (ones that didnt closer perfectly for one reason or another) that i can probably fix u up with whenever i do next upgrade.

just tape sides with electrical tape for time being (depending how bad it is). it's the front lips bent out a bit?

i may have a couple of left over enclosures (ones that didnt closer perfectly for one reason or another) that i can probably fix u up with whenever i do next upgrade.

just tape sides with electrical tape for time being (depending how bad it is). it's the front lips bent out a bit?

Haha I did tape it up..

Its the back of it that has lifted up mainly on one side

regarding the peak values that it shows, they seem to be reset automaticaly once the ignition switched off and then on? is this the way it should be? i see there is a 'clear peak values' option but it seems to do it by itself...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...