Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no worries

osman ive put you down for blue. still need to update thread to v2 stuff, maybe next weekend

currently we're about a 50/50 split for blue/green lcd so this might mean blue will only be +$5 over the green rather than $10 (due to higher quantity)

  • Replies 279
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

updated. reminder here is current list of people (both via sau, pga, and the website directly):

http://www.ecutalk.com/consultlcd/lcdorders.php

and this avi shows the blue screen:

http://www.ecutalk.com/consultlcd/consultlcd.avi

the screen was slightly covered to keep competing light out, keep that in mind that you wont be able to place it anywhere in direct sunlight (or other bright competing light). can always send it back to be swapped over to a green one for cost of postage if you dont like the blue.

unfortunately not, only those 2 alternatives at the moment. its extremely difficult to find any 20x4 screens that fit within din size (most are 60mm high which is > 50mm din size)

if u want to order 1000 however, it can be done :laugh:

ive put you down for a blue one

here's design for enclosure. unlike the last one there is no pcb slots, so not much of an issue assembling it.

adjoing hole for cable from right to back, so you can reposition cable depending on where you are mounting it without taking it apart

post-4553-1215003334_thumb.jpg

received prototype today. here's pic of it (its on an angle which is why it looks like enclosure window for lcd isnt big enough, but its fine)

ordered 100, maybe have them start august. finally!

post-4553-1215574615_thumb.jpg

added you. and here's some more pics of it. front, side (microsd slot for future hopefully), and rear showing the right/rear cable exit (can switch between either depending on how you want to mount)

do the buttons look weird? would black/dark grey look better?

post-4553-1215955467_thumb.jpg

post-4553-1215955507_thumb.jpgpost-4553-1215955523_thumb.jpg

yah after fitting one with black buttons, looks less of an eye sore :D

no idea why i didnt think of it sooner, im sure people can figure out the 'left' and 'right' button without them being different colours!

ive ordered some black ones so should be good.

have created a new thread for v2 displays:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ec...Di-t228314.html

dont post in this one anymore (send me a pm if you have issue relating to v1 display)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...