Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

good one numbnuts u wasted money phoning japan ur a PLATINUM DICKHEAD then arent you! do whAT Ever you want if you don't like what i write DONT read it !

at least i can wave my dick around and it aint stuck up my arse>

seriously u ahole im helping people here go and hassle sum1else

  • Replies 107
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guys - time for a group hug

:grouphug:

OK, the attached pic is the pipework and solinoid off of my series 1 R33 GTS-t.

See the hose on the left how it has a red band around it. Well that indicates where the restricot is in the pipe.

Have a look.

J

Can someone explain to me how adding a restrictor to the wastegate line can *limit* boost rather than raise it (or at least postpone it)? This is a serious question - as I understand it, placing any restrictor in the wastegate line will slow the response of the wastgate actuator in relation to the manifold pressure. Obviously if some well-respected people like Mark Tillbrook are saying that doing nothing except removing the restrictor will give you more power, then there must be some truth to it. Can anyone clear it up with a solid explanation?

JAGR33 - sounds like your car is a bit of a weapon :P Not disputing your claim of a power/boost increase, but I would suggest that much of this increase came from the cam gears. It's amazing what effect dialling in the cams has on not just the running of the engine, but also the building of boost due to different valve openings. Also, if the exhaust and pod were put on at the same time then they would also have a sizeable impact on boost. At a guess, the reason so many people recommend removal of the restrictor is because it makes it difficult for an aftermarket boost controller to have "full" control over the wastegate - a case of too many cooks, if you will. On a stock engine (or at least one with the factory wastgate system in place) I would leave it in, or risk losing boost response. Again, correct me if I'm wrong and you can back it up with a solid explanation of why.

I'm not going to dispute the presence - or lack thereof - of a restrictor on a non-GTR because I just don't know, suffice to say that if your car has ever been in need of a wastegate line replacement, I dare say it was replaced with standard vacuum hose, without a restrictor, as it'd be cheaper and easier to get hold of than the genuine Nissan item.

The restrictor is there to limit the volume of air going to the bleed valve (or factory solenoid) to ensure that boost is controlled better.

Many tuners (even ICE) use restrictors in the line going to a bleed valve to limit the volume of air the bleed has to "bleed off" so that spikes can be reduced.

ADAM SERIOUSLY IF I WANT TO USE CAPS LOCK I WILL OTHERWISE MIND UR OWN BUSINESS, AND YES I AM AN AIRCRAFT MECHANIC AND THIS IS A RESTRICTOR AND NO IT WONT CAUSE THE TURBO TO OVERBOOST ALL IT DOES IS FREE UP THE VACUUM LINE TO ALLOW MORE BOOST TO BE APPLIED BUT IT WILL ONLY BOOST TO 7.5PSI WITHOUT AN EXHAUST OR WITH AN EXHAUST 10 PSI . GUYS DON'T WORRY THIS WILL NOT HARM UR TURBO OR MOTOR. ITS BETTER THAN CUTTING WIRE 53

I don't understand how "freeing up" the vacuum line will allow more boost to build up? :confused:

By this logic, more pressure in this line will mean the wastegate shuts earlier = less boost

Also, it is normal for a std car to boost to 7.5psi and then to 10psi with an exhaust with no other changes.

Revhead, I see what you are getting at, but from what I've experienced in the last week, tells me that there is a difference with taking out the restrictor.

Just to clarify, my full exhaust and pod filters were installed months ago, therefore they wouldn't have increased the power from 185rwks to 215rwkws. Once I took the restrictor out, the dyno showed 200rwkws (boosting to 13.5 psi, but holding 12.7psi). Therefore an increase of 15 rwkws. Another 15rwkws were extracted from dialing in the cams.

Also my mate took out his restrictor in his R32 GTR and reckons the car boosts much harder, and an increasing in performance. We're not talking 'mind blowing' difference, but its definetly there.

As far as technical explanation goes, I can't help you there but I definetly experienced a difference....

Hope that clears things up.

All this talk of removing on a 33... are we sure we WANT 13-14psi on the stock turbo? I've read so much about stockers only holding safely around that figure, why would you want to remove the alleged restrictor?

Guest 570CK
Originally posted by Ronin 09

All this talk of removing on a 33... are we sure we WANT 13-14psi on the stock turbo? I've read so much about stockers only holding safely around that figure, why would you want to remove the alleged restrictor?

Buy a bigger turbo then :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...