Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i think he his plan is that by removing the aircon he can run shorter cooler pipes so he has better throttle response.

what you have to take into consideration is that if you have the cooler pipes too short you tighten the bends, which makes the air have to change direction more suddenly. if that pic is of the setup ypu are trying to shorten, then there isn't much you can do before you start compromising air speed.

another option would be to fit a smaller cooler. removing 6 inches of cooler will reduce the air volume by more than removing 6 inches of piping.

How do you plan to achieve throttle response? Stop being so secretive :D

Not being secretive.

Untimately the aim is to keep the intercooler piping as short as possible and with as little bends as possible.

We can play around with intercooler sizes, end tank designs... the sky is the limit.

At the same time using chinese factories to keep the prices down but keep quality up to a good level (as seen with the bar and plate cores that people are using in 400+ rwkw cars).

We recently did a project for the VL guys which can be seen here: http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=78364 (the aim of that project was to keep the intercooler hidden aswell as avoiding any holes being cut in the chassis)

Greg

Edited by EXAUNV
I'm not talking about losing the aircon due to the power loss. I'm talking about losing the aircon for space in the engine bay/front of the car.

dude, SR20 is GIVING you room if your not using an RB20.

room should be your friend.

Keep the aircon - or suffer in the heat (in silence) :D

300rwkw - never going to get rid of my aircon. I dont care what i have to do

And if you notice a throttle difference with an extra bend or two, i'll hand you a medal ;)

Cause you wont notice it at all IMO.

dude, SR20 is GIVING you room if your not using an RB20.

room should be your friend.

Keep the aircon - or suffer in the heat (in silence) :D

300rwkw - never going to get rid of my aircon. I dont care what i have to do

And if you notice a throttle difference with an extra bend or two, i'll hand you a medal ;)

Cause you wont notice it at all IMO.

You think that there wont be a noticable difference going from a Hyrbid style intercooler kit to the one I'm using in my R32? (or any other cooler kit that's remotely similiar)

I'm not talking about making kits for an SR in the skyline range as there is clearly enough room (as seen in my R32), but I'm asking to see how many people are actually using their aircon and how many people would lose it for a setup like this.

With the SR range of cars, it's not necessary to lose your air con.

Greg

Edited by EXAUNV
umm. the ac compressor turns of at any major load any way :D

just the extra heat through the radiator youve gotta wory about. its gives NO LOSS OF POWER at all.

so just bask in the nice chilled enviroment lol

We're not talking in terms of power loss from the AC compressor.

We're talking in terms of space in the engine bay.

Greg

do a search for some of the many posts by sydneykid regarding shorter cooler pipes and how removing 20cm of pipe is going to make no difference, but to do the maths

at 3000 rpm and zero boost / vac your 2.5L engine is consuming 3750L of air per minute or 62.5L per second

assuming u save 20cm of pipe and that its 2.5inch pipe that will have a volume of approx. 1.5L in that pipe.

so your engine will consume that air in 0.024 of a second, now add boost etc....to the equation and is it worth sacrificing your aircon for 0.024s of throttle response

sorry if this is wrong but as my understanding goes this is how it'd work

do a search for some of the many posts by sydneykid regarding shorter cooler pipes and how removing 20cm of pipe is going to make no difference, but to do the maths

at 3000 rpm and zero boost / vac your 2.5L engine is consuming 3750L of air per minute or 62.5L per second

assuming u save 20cm of pipe and that its 2.5inch pipe that will have a volume of approx. 1.5L in that pipe.

so your engine will consume that air in 0.024 of a second, now add boost etc....to the equation and is it worth sacrificing your aircon for 0.024s of throttle response

sorry if this is wrong but as my understanding goes this is how it'd work

20cm's of pipe?

You'll be losing around 2 meters, aswell as around 600+ degrees worth of bends.

Thats still only .2 seconds

In theory, pollsibly...

One of the drift cars we used to sponsor (180/s15 front) had a FMIC install, it's now running a V mount setup and the difference in throttle response is incredible!! I can't time it, but you sure can feel the difference.

If the RB guys aren't interested in these sorts of kits, that's not a problem. We'll just make them for the SR's.

Greg

I don't understand the concept of a vmount setup?

Any crude diagrams or picture examples?

What I really want though... :)

An FMIC setup that uses the std piping route. I would like an fmic to fill the whole front bar inlet as to let as much as possible air pass through to the radiator.

Currently as can be seen the end tanks block of a considerable amount of the front bar.

The core i'm using is apparently a spearco bar/plate core 450x260x90 *from memory* with sligh off centrally located inlet/outlets. being center located makes it easy for the hot fmic inlet pipe to do a 2 x 90 degree turns to enter the fmic (drivers side). It runs crappy 2.25" piping. :)

post-382-1156551019.jpg

I don't understand the concept of a vmount setup?

Any crude diagrams or picture examples?

What I really want though... :)

An FMIC setup that uses the std piping route. I would like an fmic to fill the whole front bar inlet as to let as much as possible air pass through to the radiator.

Currently as can be seen the end tanks block of a considerable amount of the front bar.

The core i'm using is apparently a spearco bar/plate core 450x260x90 *from memory* with sligh off centrally located inlet/outlets. being center located makes it easy for the hot fmic inlet pipe to do a 2 x 90 degree turns to enter the fmic (drivers side). It runs crappy 2.25" piping. :(

I don't have any pictures handy, but the overall idea is to have the radiator sitting on a 45 degree angle and your intercooler sitting on a 45 degree angle, the overall the advantage is that the pipes are shorter, and neither your intercooler or radiator are getting less air flow. The disadvantage to this setup is heat soak.

Greg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
×
×
  • Create New...