Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its not hard to change front bars and wings....once you get into things like brakes etc its not as cheap/easy...and you wouldn't downgrade on things like those....so i'd say its a GTS with a 5 stud conversion and some cosmetic changes...

i have a headache... i wish i never found this thread :D

R32 GTS-T had a type m package which included larger breaks

R33 S1 type m had the bodykit with the larger front bar

R33 S2 were all type m as far as I know

With regard to the 33's I don't know if type m's included other factory options such as ABS or extra airbags etc or if the options weren't included in the so called m-spec package and instead were just factory options that most cars have?

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 year later...

OK, type M GTS-T's came with a different front bar identified with foglights and lower lips, had better seat trims plus the front brake calipers are 5 pot brakes and came with stock type M side skirts...non type M's did not.

Anyone else?

  • 8 months later...

People can correct me if i'm wrong, But i had two skyline's, One is a normal (RB25DE) and the other is a (RB25DE) TYPE M But now it turbo, and the difference between them is:

One is A/C

Two is Rear Stabilizer

Third is Four Wheel Steer

Fourth is LSD Diff

Firth is Rear Wiper

And the interior is no different in both, can tell you about the exterior cause one has a body kit....

But that the difference that i have found... And i always throught that non-turbo skylines had the type m, And turbo model skylines had the spec m

Edited by DELLER
  • 4 years later...

Reviving a old thread lol. From what i know with my car being a mod 1995 type m is that i have the front bar side skirts and rear pods, drivers air bag only sunroof and a s2 motor, no hicas no abs, and a s1 interior with the driver air bag.

post-136222-0-80273900-1411970497_thumb.jpg

  • 9 months later...

Look seriously if your checking an R33 for a Type-M check the Model number on the Vin plate the blue Nissan Motor Co plate and if that model number has a T at the 6th digit then it is a Type-M easy as that as far as I know.

Mine is a GTS25T Type-M though I don't know what I have different to any other R33 GTS25T I do have a sunroof though.

But looking at cav33r 95 R33 mine is a 93 R33 and I have the same front bumper.

Edited by HYBRID VL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...