Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hows it goin fellas, the time has come when i got enough cash to get a front mount for the 33. I was just about to buy a kit off the net until a mate reminded me about what our high school science teacher (a retired mechanical engineer who built HIMSELF a 10sec s2 rx7) once said... when it comes to intercoolers just get a truck cut, the bigger the core the better!

So does anyone agree or disagree? should i join our VLT brothers and get a nice big truckcut cooler???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132210-intercoolersthe-bigger-the-better/
Share on other sites

Hows it goin fellas, the time has come when i got enough cash to get a front mount for the 33. I was just about to buy a kit off the net until a mate reminded me about what our high school science teacher (a retired mechanical engineer who built HIMSELF a 10sec s2 rx7) once said... when it comes to intercoolers just get a truck cut, the bigger the core the better!

So does anyone agree or disagree? should i join our VLT brothers and get a nice big truckcut cooler???

No I certainly DONT agree . Truck intercoolers use tubes with large passages for very high mass flow . If you look at OEM performance intercoolers used on cars such as the later Evo Lancers and the GTR's you'll see that the flat passages are not as deep as your typical Louisville core . From what I'm told the aim is to slow the charge air sufficiently so that enough time is availabe for the core material to absorb the heat in the air passing through it . The function of an intercooler is to transfer heat while posing the minimum flow restriction . If the air speed is too high through the IC's tubes it will not reject the heat generated by the compressor .

The design of the end collectors is also very important , you want the incoming air to easily access all the tubes and to be ducted into the outlet with the minimum constriction . Have a look at the IC chapter in Corky Bells book Maximum Boost , the diagrams should put you on the right track . Don't forget to leave some airflow for the engines radiator core .

Cheers A .

yeah a truck core is bad. an ideal model would be a 450x60x300

that why its not a stupid truck / vl turbo 700x300x90 core which is just too big and youll have sucky throttle response.

Truck cores are simply designed for that trucks as stated above the airflow characteristics are completely different e.g. truck revs to 4000rpm street car 7000rpm+.

Bigger is not always better, the bigger you the more throttle response you loose get a intercooler matched to you application if you don’t plan on upgrading the your stock turbo a R34 GTT intercooler is you best bet.

Read this page for more information

http://nissanskyline.6te.net/tuning_GTS25T.htm

cheers

Truck cores are simply designed for that trucks as stated above the airflow characteristics are completely different e.g. truck revs to 4000rpm street car 7000rpm+.

Bigger is not always better, the bigger you the more throttle response you loose get a intercooler matched to you application if you don’t plan on upgrading the your stock turbo a R34 GTT intercooler is you best bet.

Read this page for more information

http://nissanskyline.6te.net/tuning_GTS25T.htm

cheers

I have an arc i/c for $1500..hahaha :(:):O:(:banana:

Discopotato is right on the money. I guess what you are looking for is a IC that is a compromise between its size and also it's efficiency (thermal and restriction) for a given application.

Look, you can buy cheap aftermarket car IC's everywhere these days that offer (well state) good thermal efficiency with low pressure losses. Gone are the days when a truck IC was the only cheap alternative.

Fixxxer

Truck cores are simply designed for that trucks as stated above the airflow characteristics are completely different e.g. truck revs to 4000rpm street car 7000rpm+.

not quite. depending on the truck will depend on how they rev, but most rev under 3000rpm. and most trucks are about 10L motor, and pump out HUGE amounts of air (the turbo's are huge) so the big tubes in a truck cooler are good for that amount of air, but not the tiny amount (in comparison) of air you are wanting to push.

the common size cooler for a r33 is 600x300. thats the size that the hybrid and most others come in.

Edited by mad082

would you use truck tyres? or a truck steering wheel? no because those parts are clearly designed for a truck, not a high performance passenger car. the same is true for their intercoolers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...