Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a really dirty engine bay and want some advice on the best way to clean it!

I don't want to damage the paint.

The reason I ask is I have oosed out the engine bay before and got corrosion on all my terminals.

Do you use degreaser in a can and then wipe it off?

First cover your battery terminals, cam cover +/ coilpacks, afm, alarm/siren.

Use engine degreaser, spray on hose off.

Use a cloth dry out as much as possible, then uncover the covered bits, and start the car up in as short a time as practical as to dry out the rest.

Then continue to detail the rest by hand using metal polishes and/or silicone spray.

On the inner panels - I use cut and polish, in a similar way i'd do the exterior panels.

Edited by Howie

i do as what howie said.. but i have som slight changes:

- cover alternator, battery, alarm, coil packs, AFM - try uising plastic bags and/or old t-shirts or rags

- spray with a little bit of water

- use about 1-2cans of degreaser.. spray it all over everything and leave it do its job for about 10-15mins

- hose it all clean

- get some WD-40 and go nuts over all the electrical items you can see - electrical plugs, wires.. i sprayed WD-40 over the entire engine bay basically!

- remove the covered items such as alternator etc.

- start the car and let it idle for about 5 minutes with the hood open.. then take it for a brief drive

enjoy!

cheers,

Warren

get a heap of cans of the cheap export degreaser. use a few cans to get it to soak into all the crap, then use the next few cans to work like a pressure gun. get in as close as you can so the pressure sprays off al the crap. or go out and buy some of that real expensive stuff that you have to mix up. that stuff will lift off some seriously stubborn gunk.

Or you could do what im doing and completely remove the engine and every little nut bolt and washer and polish everything one by one...But i probably wouldnt advise this as it tends to take just a little longer :( Mind you the end result should be insane!

cover all electricals... then give it a fine spray of this stuff called "shift it" which you can get from most auto shops like homobarn and crapco. Make sure you don't get it on your paint as it sorta eats into clearcoats. leave it on there for a couple of minutes then douse the f**ker with a highpressure water hose. make sure you wash off excess etc.

goes from filthy to clean in minutes.

I've never been as carefull as you guys in my almost 5yrs and almost 150,000km's of owner ship.

I head down to the local car lovers/bp self wash, pop the bonnet while its still hot, shove a dollar in and spray the engine bay with its degreaser. I then wait a few minutes, and high pressure spray it all off.

I'm not carefull where I don't spray but I don't concentrate it on plugs etc.. I simply just spray it off.

Never had an issue except for when my injector plug boots were cracked, they soon got replaced. :D

Ours in Adelaide do.

Its called Engine Degreaser/Tyre Cleaner.

To wash the car I never use their brush. I always bring my bucket and mit along with my own car wash. I then only use the high pressure wash to wash the suds off. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dredgggggeeee time; I have recently finally started driving the car. It sat for so long that the fuel tank gave birth to rust sludge and blocked my lift pump sock and one of my walbro 460's and left grime, rust chunks and muck all through the surge tank and system. I decided to commit and pull the trigger on an oem r32 gtr fuel tank and Frenchys twin 460 / sender / surge tank hanger combo and all new larger lines and fittings etc, also boost doc heater hose kit / new heater core and a heap of other bits and shits like wideband sensor installed in the dump and Syltech iacv + lines and all wired and added to current tune. now having lightly driven it a couple times without issue, I can happily report on the hta3076 in its current tune. still no boost control switched on, 20psi gate springs, car makes 22psi at 3200rpm in 6th gear with 30-50% TPS from cruise at 100kmh. Going by the old graph, this means it should be making 300-325whp at the same numbers above. Very very responsive setup under true road driving loads. all that's left for the build is body loom + PDM, finish the remote aircon setup, install carbon fibre parts and go for full tune and 30psi. the 315 rear tyres are now performing like they're 195's, wheel spin in any gear at almost any rpm, whereas my previous setup hooked up in 3rd no issue, albeit Nt01's back then / RB25 5spd vs (new) old date r888r's Z34 6spd now, + obviously all the support upgrades I listed in the quoted post above. car sits at 1-3psi on cruise at 100kmh, expectations totally exceeded and I'm beyond stoked with all this so far. IMG_4848.mov
    • I've also been eyeing their rear axles for my car. I purchased seat mounts from them about 7 years ago and they were hot garbage so I've been a little wary about purchasing them. With that being said, please buy them and get back to us haha. 
    • Can a moderator please move this into the right category.. I've accidently put this into racing build thread 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Being a manual, we very quickly ordered new R34 gearbox (From Nissan) and remaining parts from Kudos motorsports. Would highly recommend the team there. Ultra helpful and quick to share advice and upgrades. We are in the middle of taking the Auto out (Genuine 94,000/kms) and putting the Manual in this weekend. Part 2 of the build will include likely a Plazaman Intercooler and Plenium, Hks Exhaust with Tomei Dump (ordered).
×
×
  • Create New...