Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

man seriously darK i think something is wrong with u. this whole thred was about finding out which is better....when the hell did i say i prefer branded over non branded for performance.....i only said i know from mates telln me they have no problems and love their exhausts (which happen to be branded).

damnet this forum pisses me off sometimes :(

10 bux says someones gonna get me for wat i jsut said......**cough**cough** admins :/

It's all the same shit.

Japanese people don't have access to special kinds of magical mufflers that increase power.

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I would go jap brand any time of the day. Their mufflers are JASMA approved which is much like ADR in australia. Mufflers are much higher quality and most are quieter than ur xforce, supercat etc...

There is a reason why people pay so much more for a jap brand. Although having said that..if you want to pay upwards of 2K for a CES full system which is tried and tested, you'll probably be happy too. each to their own budget.

part1: noname - save ya $$$

hell, its a round hollow metal pipe, generally around 3inches in diameter.............. brand name means nothing IMO. youd be paying extra $$ for R&D into the muffler design (and yeah they've all been copied by now).

part 2: the search function works perfectly well.

Hey Hi emsta2003,

just noticed that you said you have a turst PE2, have you had it tested for how loud it is? I was thinking of getting one later on.

I just got defected for my exhaust 93db at 3200rpm.

thanks

Michael

most cat backs are the same imo - but I have heard that jap brand catbacks have been tested much better than the no name catbacks. I got a trust pe2 - main reason was that it was very quiet - and once i did get it installed - it sounded fantastic and the response on the car is much much better :)

If you want a huge rumbling noise type cat back - then go with xforce or blitz nur spec - i have heard them on a silvia and a chaser respectively - and all i could say was its way too loud for my liking....

Street car? Just get whatever. I had a noname stainless steel exhaust, HKS copy split dump, noname pipe to high flow cat, unknown pipe, angle ground and welded trust muffler (by me).. oh and before the muffler I asked a muffler shop to put in a resonator.

A grumbly but respectable throaty car just a touch under 200rwkw.

Point is it doesn't much matter, just get a good one of either, not a crap one of either.... Of course, I'd be making another "team I need $" muffler :)

IMO, i believe both are exhausts whether branded or not. They are either made of stainless steel or mild steel. However as one of the members have said, the Japanese Brands ( Eg, HKS, Blitz, Apex-I ) might have better welding and things like that. I really doubt that matters much actually.

Hey Hi emsta2003,

just noticed that you said you have a turst PE2, have you had it tested for how loud it is? I was thinking of getting one later on.

I just got defected for my exhaust 93db at 3200rpm.

thanks

Michael

Hey bud - havent tested it, but had it running next to another jasma approved exhaust (on another 'line) and I also had compared it against a rex - and its very very quiet - I think when I asked around I was qouted it at 93db - but it sounds much much lower than that...

I suppose because im a non-turbo :huh:...........that it wont really apply to you (post maker) but i have 2 1/4 inch cat back with a 5" fat boy pro sitting out the rear of my ride. It sounds great, not too loud, a great klow tone at low revs which eases off as you hit 100 -120kms. Havent been defected and i have freinds who are cops which say that my ride is all good (as far as Db's are concerned).

Ohhh and for brand stuff, if your in adelaide AAA exhausts did a great job, no brand name stuff from the cat and the fatboy pro......didnt know much about it before the purchase but it looked awesome and yeah sounds great!!!!

Regards Evan

Edited by EMZ R33
Although having said that..if you want to pay upwards of 2K for a CES full system which is tried and tested, you'll probably be happy too. each to their own budget.

Try 2K for just custom front pipes and dumps from CES, yeah right id pay that :huh:

Sorry for the double reply but thought id setup a few pics of the exhaust instead of just talking bout it.

Also thought id put this one up too, took it the other day and thought it was a great shot!!!

Ohhhh, and i paid $270 for the AAA Exhausts cat back system and another $170 for the fatboy with instalation

Total $440!!!

IMG_2519.jpg

All the best, here are some links

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/EMZR33/IMG_2523.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/EMZR33/IMG_2533.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/EMZR33/IMG_2524.jpg

Regards Evan

Edited by EMZ R33
It's all the same shit.

Japanese people don't have access to special kinds of magical mufflers that increase power.

but they do have access to larger than 3" off-the-shelf mufflers that you can't get here. That is a big advantage for some cars.

AAA are no doubt one of the best in Adelaide. With their own mandrel bending machine, they make their cat backs 1 piece. They are great blokes to deal with.

Good call Busky2k, AAA were great to me and my ride and although i didnt get my system mandrel bend (if thats the term to use) it still flows and sounds sharp, clear and clean. And yeah, they took my whole setup off my R33 and made it on their garage floor then BANG, straight on!!!! My hat off to the team.

Also i should mention Profix at Hilton for the cannon fitting, they were great to deal with as well, and if you dont already know from my "Cruise for a Cause" posting/ event in S.A they are providing a free sercvice and tune for the best car on the day. Please click on the link at the bottom of my posting for more info!!!!

Regards Evan

Edited by EMZ R33
It's all the same shit.

Japanese people don't have access to special kinds of magical mufflers that increase power.

maybe so but they probz been in the business more then any other country when it comes to this stuff.....and that counts for something.....i dunno..........maybe im better off trying a non branded and see hwo ti goes....save myself a few hundred

Edited by anDru

Hey guys a lil off topic, but i was thinking about getting this Blitz Nur Spec R Cat back for my line, its pretty cheap on nengun.com, but the only thing holding me back is that it says its loud throaty noise.

Wondering has anyone had experiance with this cat back? Is it actually really loud when driving normally, droney etc?

Thanks!

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/718

Thats a link

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...