Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone Managed To Fit A Sub Box With 2x 15" Subs In R33 Boot?

kursed

By kursed,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

kursed Rising Star

kursed

Posted
Posted

as in title, I want to know if anyone had managed to make a sub box with 2 x 15" subs fit in the boot of their R33. I may be buying someones entire stereo system and just wanted to know if anyones done it successfully before. I have asked him for dimensions but he hasn't got back to me yet and I may be able to get a smaller or differnetly chaped box made up anyway

thanks guys / girls

Luke

kursed Rising Star

kursed

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lol! each to their own. i don't see how a bassy sound system would be horrible. I think 'horrible' is what my stock standard factory system sounds like.

why would you want such an over kill of a stereo in the first place? It would sound horrible
Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

How is it bassy? Where will you be sitting or standing when you are listening to it?

Did you know that a 63Hz sound wave (roughly the frequency of a kick drum) takes about 4.8 metres to travel so if you are any closer than that to the speakers you wont hear it.

ydawak Community Regular

ydawak

Posted
Posted
as in title, I want to know if anyone had managed to make a sub box with 2 x 15" subs fit in the boot of their R33. I may be buying someones entire stereo system and just wanted to know if anyones done it successfully before. I have asked him for dimensions but he hasn't got back to me yet and I may be able to get a smaller or differnetly chaped box made up anyway

thanks guys / girls

Luke

Hi there,

I have an R33 series 1 4door, now i think that they are the same size boot as the coupe. You will probbably have a lot of trouble mounting 2 x 15 subs in behind the rear seat unless you sacrafice a lot of boot space. If you don't use your boot it should be easy. However i think that 2 x 12s would be much better. The difference that you would actually hear between 12s and 15s is very minimal. I mean on paper the 15s go deeper and rattle the car appart more. I have had 2 15s and 2 12s in my old car and the 12s were much better because they have a higher respons and better sound. (my opinion.) If you get something like Rockford Fosgate our soundstream you really would only need one 12. They are insane. However i can understand the need for symetry i.e 2 subs.

You will ahve to consider what amp you are going to use aswell. You should always overpower speakers so that your amps dont work so hard. By overpower o dont mean run them into thr ground i mean supply them with more power than they need.

Thats just my 20 cents. I have gone through a few stereos, but like i said before each to their own.

:(

ydawak Community Regular

ydawak

Posted
Posted
How is it bassy? Where will you be sitting or standing when you are listening to it?

Did you know that a 63Hz sound wave (roughly the frequency of a kick drum) takes about 4.8 metres to travel so if you are any closer than that to the speakers you wont hear it.

In a car you will hear it, because the sound bounces around the car. You are right though, but that is more the case in a hall or big room. A human ear cant hear below 20-25hz or higher than 15khz (some exeptions) so when you buy a speaker that is rated to below 25hz it will just shake everything :(

R32_Matt Rising Star

R32_Matt

Posted
Posted

they will fit but you will have to have the box leaned back probably greater than 45 degrees.

in my 32 the box is at about this angle to fit under the boot lid for a 12 inch sub.

the bigger the sub the further it will have to be angled back.

i dont know how much higher a 33 boot is than a 32 boot though.

you will most likely have to custom make a box

kursed Rising Star

kursed

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for all the comments guys.

I would not usually be looking at 2x15"s but it was just a good looking deal I came across. I have previously had either 2x 10" subs or 1 x 12" to give me the kick I needed. I still might lean towards the single quality 12" over 2 subs as I will need some boot space left for the groceries!

any recommendations on a killer 12"? I have heard the Alpine Type R are decent but I must admit to not having much knowledge of models / brands...

700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted

I have a Focal sub.......on rails(8") fitted to my gtr33.

Fits nicely in the corner without taking up much room.

You really for 2 * 15 Inch subs should look at a custom job.

Get a good installer to quote you.

You will take advantage of the dead space in the inside of the boot this way.

Cheers.

fr0st Experienced

fr0st

Posted
Posted

Give me a couple of days and I should have part of my guide up for making a fiberglass sub enclosure.

I'm using a 15inch that I had for my previous car because I could be bothered selling it and buying a new one. It sits in one of the back corners of the boot. Pretty much the area I masking taped off in the attached pic. Just repeat for the other side of the boot and your set. You'll lose access to your jack though if you don't make them removeable.

post-28866-1157620156.jpg

thorpe84 Proficient

thorpe84

Posted
Posted

check out sondstream for amps and subs, they are disturbing

i think there are a few on ebay for a really good price $300-400

im getting a 4 chan picaso soon =)~~

MA audio have a few good subs too

cheez Mentor

cheez

Posted
Posted

hey guys i got 2 10" comp subs in the boot of my sky, like the dude with the taped up areas showing where boxes go i got some pics of mine, ignore the fact that i havent finished carpeting the necessary areas. i have also shifted my jack to behind the extinguisher u can see in the pics, there is a small door cut out, check it out. i could have put 12" in but i kept my 10" comp subs instead and they still rattle the tits off the skyline.

only 1 hint of advice is that u remove the old standard car amp, in boot next to battery mounted to underside of parcel shelf and redo all the stereo wires, clearer sound.

post-31466-1157878268.jpg

post-31466-1157878279.jpg

post-31466-1157878289.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...