Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah ive buggerd my rails too using a trolley jack and theres no way of gettin it back to orignial for too...sigh. i was thinkin of making an insert on a lathe to sit in the trolley jack to make it fit like a normal jack.

as for jackin points....the manual says diff and crossmember.

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

supra,

My rails certainly aren't stuffed and I refuse to stuff them myself.

I refer to my earlier post if you are doing an oil change, by running up on one car ramp sideways !?

If I had to jack it, it would be by the crossmember /diff as mentioned by others.

El Bee

This is another manifestation of analness and stupid arguments with no evidence to back it up.

Those of you who say you are wrekcing the structural integrity of the car - do you actually know what the sills do? the little thin metal flap will just get flattened onto the sill. The sill itself does not actually get damaged, just the little metal flap gets bent. Have you actually felt it? it is so thing and weak and it does almost nothing.

I'm not saying jack up by the chassis rail, because that does get bent, and that is important. If the fatory jacking point it the sill, then it can take it. Does the standard jack bend the sill? NO! therefore by jacking it by the sill, the only thing you bend is that stupid flap that does nothing.

Besides, like i said, a lot of car garages hoist the car by the sill, and that flap does get flattened. Skylines are not special in this sense. All cars have that little metal flap and it gets bent. If you went up to your parents and told them about that on their car would they care? NO

:werd: I think you'll find *any* shop with a hoist lifts your cars by the sills. Some places put rubber pads where they lift but thats just how hoists work.

Floor jacks on the other hand should use the diff, gearbox or engine crossmember or a suspensions mounting point

Scary Story!

I have got a 1350kg trolley jack which the handle was so short that I can't even pump it outside the car. (as in the handle's length is still can't be seen if you look from the top of car down). I've got it in the air how ever, it's extremely hard to lift it very high. I used normal jack to jack up more, then trolley up again, then jack up again then trolley until the stands fit under the sills.

At this point, I placed the stands underneath each side's sill. and let go of the trolley jack, but oops, did it too fast with the release hydrulics... the car thumped down on to the stands! made a loud noise!!!!!! i was so freaked out!

i thought it stabbed right through the cabin or something!

But it didn't, I was pretty sure the gap b/w the stands and the sills weren't more than 2cm! I had real trouble getting the stands underneath the sills in the first place. When I did, there was hardly enough space for me to place a piece of wood in.

I realised the noise came from the metals hitting each other, as in the sills and the stand, there was no visual damage!

Can you guys tell me if there will be structual damage?

The reason i am jacking the car up is for service, change oil etc.

after this incident, I dropped the car back on ground! scared it would have done more damage! I found that I don't need to jack the car up for me to get to the sump plug, how stupid me!

=( Still shaking from that noise, it's like, ****, there goes my car!

Amazingly no damage noticed!

and yes I did use the trolley to jack at the front cross memeber! with a block of wood, hardly any noticeable change after it's down.

But take my advice, do not purchase the 1350kg jack from super cheap auto! the handle is too short, go for the heavy duty ones... like the next grade up! i fink this trolley jack is for little starlets! not skylines!

any one can suggest a good trolley jack with a longer arm?

sounds like you weren't careful enough with the release screw :) do have to be careful other you are right.

you generally always have problems with the big chunky one on lowered cars, even worse with a bodykit. I have great trouble even getting it under my sideskirts. And front similar story of getting to gearbox cross member due to 400R bar.

You can get a special "slim-line jack" which is better suited to our sorts of cars, but can cost a fair amount. I guess you only have to buy one once though and you will always have it.

yes it should be fine.. remember the actual jack load will be less than 1350kg as you are only jacking one, or at most two wheels. The rest of the weight will be distributed to those other points as the car is jacked.

You just have to make sure that screw is tight as buggery when you go to jack it up.

I also use a supercheap auto jack :Oops:

fatz also had one of those super cheap jacks, we had my GTR up on it and the jack twisted, bent and dropped the car.

Also inconvenient coz we didn't have another jack to rescue the bent jack from under the car. Not happy.

As for 1350kg, that should be heaps....how many wheels lift off the ground when you jack a car. The jack's only holding all the wieght if all4 wheels are off the ground :)

I'm currently getting one of these, $315 delivered.

dont buy that $ 30 rubish they are dangerous !! i've seen them twist and the car just drops .

spend like 150-200 and get a proper one ( still a cheapie ) i use proper commercial jacks that i've had for 20 years and still going strong ( i've changed the seals though )

supra dont put the stands under the sill put them under the rail you wont bend that .

the jack that comes with the car you put under the sill cause its made for it . and its only meant to be used to change a flat tyre thats it .

you say you can get under the car to undo the sump plug , sure you can but what about checking things like gear oil , cv boots , uni joints , oil leaks and what ever you got to jack the car up to do a proper service its much easier and you dont want to use el cheapo stands either ( made out of 1.6 mm steel ) they are to flimsey .

wrxhoon, yes, i take your word for it mate! it didn't sound right as soon as 2 wheels are off the ground, the spring was like , grung grung grung, gurnk ... and i can not lift it any more!

it was so hard to pump it cause the stupid handle wasn't long enough! god damn! I just hope there wasn't any structual damage to what I did today! =(

any industry trolley jack thats worth about 200 or so will do the job. compare that to 25bucks from someplace like supercheap and it pretty much answers all questions:D

yeah i agree that bending those flaps will do shiit all to the integrity of the car but boy do they look terrible when u do bend em.

and yes u dont need to jack the car up to change the oil:D:D

fatz also had one of those super cheap jacks, we had my GTR up on it and the jack twisted, bent and dropped the car.

Also inconvenient coz we didn't have another jack to rescue the bent jack from under the car.  Not happy.

As for 1350kg, that should be heaps....how many wheels lift off the ground when you jack a car.  The jack's only holding all the wieght if all4 wheels are off the ground :)

I'm currently getting one of these, $315 delivered.

More Info?? what does it weigh, low hgt, raised hgt, what brand name??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...