Jump to content
SAU Community

How Far Do You Get On Empty Light?


Recommended Posts

not the smartest idea to run it dead dry , becuase if it picks up a slight bit of rubbish in the tank, it can possibly block one of your injectors, as they are like pin holes , so something very small can block them.

i wouldnt push my 33 that low

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive got up to 450 Kms and the light hasnt come on yet. I presume I can easily get around 520-550 out of my tank If I run it dry.

Dont try and run your car dry too often as the shit in your petrol tank gets sucked into the engine and will ruin it over time. It even says so in the manual.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was always told it is bad to run right to the bottom of the tank, cos you pick up all the stuff that normally sits in the bottom....I had issues with my commodore a while back with fuel pumps shittng themselves because of excess buildup of sludge and crap in the bottom of the tank....

Thats a bit of an old wives tale - the pickups for the tank are actually in the bottom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

zappn is right. The fuel in your tank acts to cool the pump, had and lpg car come in the other day on a tilt tray ran out of fuel so drove on lpg, this system only cut injectors and not pump..... you should have seen this thing looked like a garbage bin that had been set on fire!!!!!

I didn't even know that R33's had fuel lights, is this on every car e.g 32 33 34 GTS-T GTR???

As for the junk at the bottom of the tank, every time you park your car for a prolonged period time all the junk would settle, at the bottom, so when you start it all the junk is on the bottom where the fuel pick up is so theoretically it should be sucked up every time the car is started...!! so I tend to disagree with that train of thought, if it can get through the pump, one way valve, and filter its gotta be pretty small so it should go through the injector, these days injectors rarely require cleaning anyways not for at least 100-150K even then they still flow and spray pretty well specially if you run quality fuel. thats my 2c worth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok go sick dude, run empty for the next few months and tell us how you go.

I run my cars as empty as I need to and never have any issues. I even ran the R31 totally dry, the engine cut out 50m out from the servo, swung it in and slammed on the brakes right outside the bowser and put 61L into a 60L tank. It took an extra turn to start because there was no fuel in the lines but after that it was A-OK.

The only conceivable problem could be if your tank has water in it, but that's not terribly likely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't even know that R33's had fuel lights, is this on every car e.g 32 33 34 GTS-T GTR???

I'm curious about this too.

I almost invariably only ever get 45L into the tank, and people keep telling me its a 65L tank (R33 GTS-T), i just don't like the idea of "running out" of fuel - no real wives tale behind it, just walking sucks really.

Can someone confirm there is actually a fuel light on an R33 GTS-T series 1 dash, and that it should work with a PFC and bosch fuel pump - odd question i know.

I get usually 340ish km out of the 45L (roughly 13.3L/100km) out of driving about canberra for the week - although i have got it set on 10psi and well i'm impatient.

On long, boring, speed-camera infested, anal-police patrolled humourless highways, i see about 500km for the same fill - roughly 9L/100km - still same boost setting, and includes minor moments of overtaking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok go sick dude, run empty for the next few months and tell us how you go.

Think about this.........if you had a bunch of crap at the bottom of your tank, what happens every time you fuel up??

It gets mixed up with the new fuel being pumped into the tank and the fuel filter would do its job

EDIT - My 33 has a fuel light and as it comes on i fill up

Edited by fat33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i was just about to do a search on this topic. can anyone actually confirm that a series 2 skyline has a fuel light? i always fill up when it gets to empty and ive never seen a warning light come on but then again whenever i fill up i only get 45 to 50 litres in. too scared to take it any further though unless i know theres a warning light but i keep hearing conflicting answers.

thanks! :woot:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i was just about to do a search on this topic. can anyone actually confirm that a series 2 skyline has a fuel light? i always fill up when it gets to empty and ive never seen a warning light come on but then again whenever i fill up i only get 45 to 50 litres in. too scared to take it any further though unless i know theres a warning light but i keep hearing conflicting answers.

thanks! :woot:

my series 2 has a fuel light :nuke:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, I was supprised. Its all about flow rather then housing size.  Doing G35-900 Vs ATR45SS-1 Next. 62mm V 61mm. 
    • Of course sometimes you cannot go with the cheaper alternative but I try to weigh it up for the application - am I competing or am I going to the track ten times p/yr. As long as there’s enough information out there to back the cheaper alternative as a good option I’ll go for that.   I’m a bit of a bastard though as it’s my job to reduce costs, particularly on non income generating assets. EUR 500 saved for the diff + EUR 1,000 saved on BC racing over Bilstein and then say EUR 300 versus EUR 600 on an off brand windscreen versus OEM (for example) soon accumulates. I mean, I’m probably gonna put the car in the ditch anyway. Absolutely do not take this as a justification for always buying cheap shitty parts, just a rationale for doing your research and considering what’s necessary for your application.    
    • All the above effort, time, swapping out parts in the dark (i.e. no O2 data). You're literally running in the dark.
    • Looks like both of my cars have pressure switch issues. The R32 GTR has 18 flashes on the ATTESSA controller which is "ETS pressure switch circuit". The 4WD light is intermittent, and often just restarting the car clears it. There is an $300 replacement option https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285675135148?itmmeta=01HXN3YKRGKQ08GRZ5KFKKZWJT&hash=item428390a0ac:g:6CcAAOSwWxBltMEG so if it becomes a permanent issue and I can confirm that the switch is the issue, i have a solution. The NM35 is reporting C1208, and disconnecting the switch causes the 4WD light to go away. Translating from the Japanese shop manual "when the pressure is reduced to 2.6MPa (377 psi) or less: conduction occurs when the pressure increases to 3.8MPa (550 psi) or less: conduction is present. Reference: • Immediately after the E-TS actuator motor stops, the pressure inside the accumulator is high and there is no continuity." Not sure how good the translation is but from what i can deduce this means the switch is normally closed (NC) and as the pressure builds from 0 to 550 psi the switch stays closed, then opens and 550 psi. As the pressure drops from 550 psi to 377 psi the switch stays open then closes again at 377 psi. Is that how these things work? These pressures are a lot higher than the R32 ("control pressure 0-228 psi") but i'm hoping i can find a generic switch (like they've done for the R32) to use as a replacement. Maybe something like https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355586397452?epid=1676016964&itmmeta=01HXN534AF22ACTG6TGDDQGEQ7&hash=item52ca99d50c:g:mAEAAOSw8ilmBcMh&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LtWdNlWHgyJ%2F3cbw25S2A1lde3qBi3fJii4T3lQavCz4kpqiD42SmBa4FocMvXCjcxiowHjb8vZ8%2BWxc53BkHv781tkStSnCDaenfGKC3bIp0keK20dfsn9LoPa3TfqaEmAydqqyKobgTdXsGGzsl%2BRjOVGuD8OIpOv%2B0wMl7aUtHg0iJtojbtzA%2BRS8Xfm8Ufjuvz4niwrqglAXFUbkL6J%2FGuHPeeECZhLBBN3iNM1Swl94Fv5zE95YK%2B5O6dxDN1ySNOjdMxkA8yaprbuwRHFQv1nlGh%2FWjekj6EUFR2%2FO4HTsoKtSAkY0Mj1w1uf1w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zFjKXtYw but with a lower close pressure, and thread adapter if required. Am i dreaming?
×
×
  • Create New...