Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

woah danger! thats an awesome figure!! and coming from an auto as well!!! good work!!1

did you think the q45 was necessary?

we had to tweak the Q45 as it kept maxing out.

So yes i would say it was money well spent.

there around the same price as a Z32 anyway.

nice,

anyone have any idea how this turbo would do on a RB30 with mild Cams and a 7k Redline?

How would it do with the different AR sizes .63 .82 1.06?

responsive? laggy?

rb25 standard cams

.82 AR

26psi by 4200rpm

would be about 3500 on a rb30 and may be better with cams.

Hi fellas,

Grepin actually had the .68 housing originally and made over 300@the tyres, then just recently he changed to the larger housing - not much difference in the power output just moved it higher in the rev range. I think he said he's seen 320kw@ the tyres at one stage (maybe he had the wastegate wired shut!!!?)

I'm going to stay with my .68 housing - I've just purchased 256 tomei pon cams and fitted water meth so am looking foreward to a new tune.

Cheers

Grepin went to fairly extreme measures to get that 300rwkw, like practically having to jam closed the wastegate from what i remember!

my 280rwkw was made with a small front mount and 3inch exhaust, i have just fitted a HKS type-R FMIC off of my GTR to replace the little hybrid, plus a 3 1/2 inch exhaust. Once its off defect (very soon!) i will put the good bits back on and re-tune and see what happens.

if grepin has the 0.87 and totally maxed it at 300rwkw, then isnt it likely that mine is the same housing, seeing as i got close to 300 without really screwing it for max power?

How much difference in peak power is the housing gonna make? Mine also doesnt hit hard till 4000rpm, which housing would that fact indicate?? im thinking if i do have the 0.68 and it doesnt hit hard till 4grand, then on an RB20 it would be laggy as hell! Seeing how you guys are saying the .68 is good on an rb20, it would lead me to think its a 0.87... yet something in my mind remembers 0.68 fron when i ordered it... why cant it just have the damn number on the housing!!

First of all, nice numbers!

Few questions though:

1. How does it spool so quickly? I thought it was commonly accepted that you wouldn't have 20+ psi until 4700ish on a RB25 w/ stock head. Is it all because of the manifold? Or the tune?

2. Shouldn't the .82 AR GT3540 make around 500whp at 26 psi? Not saying that 425 is low by any means but still.

3. At what rpm does boost really start building?

Not calling BS or anything, just tryin to figure things out for my turbo setup. Thanks!

Awesome results Darren, as you said stock head, plenum, cams and an auto. :D

Definitely an excellent power figure for the boost run not to forget its an auto that are well known for sucking out a bit of power. No doubt if it was behind a manual you could throw another 30rwkw on to the figure.

Also looks like that stock wastegate size is working well, its definitely able to pass the air required as it is dropping boost at the top end. Great to see you've made use of those internals with a peak of 26-27psi.

Still dumb founded.. 317rwkw on the stock auto, tough little auto box's those.

So... Is it scary.. :(

1. How does it spool so quickly? I thought it was commonly accepted that you wouldn't have 20+ psi until 4700ish on a RB25 w/ stock head. Is it all because of the manifold? Or the tune?

Auto's have a considerable influence on spool

Go the Auto!!!!!!

its very predictable.. you can cruise around off boost and its so nice to drive, yet point it in a straight line and boot it and it changes up into top gear rather quickly.

All good..

big smile..

i have dropped it back to 20psi as i said i would, but its nice to know that its there if i need it.

:laugh:

Hi fellas,

Grepin actually had the .68 housing originally and made over 300@the tyres, then just recently he changed to the larger housing - not much difference in the power output just moved it higher in the rev range. I think he said he's seen 320kw@ the tyres at one stage (maybe he had the wastegate wired shut!!!?)

I'm going to stay with my .68 housing - I've just purchased 256 tomei pon cams and fitted water meth so am looking foreward to a new tune.

Cheers

I must have the 0.68 housing then. that sounds about right now... I too will stick with it as its just right for the street and should cut some nice 11's with the right traction!

Dangerman thats a great result! so how much bigger is this turbo than a HKS 3037proS? given the fact that on a manual car the HKS will see 320+rwkw, and yours if it was manual a touch more?!

It would be nice to see it on the rollers but personally I probably wouldn't juuuuuuust incase it made less power. lol

That would eat at me.

Either way buddy.. Just asking if you had plans to or not. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...