Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i go autobarn/repco already, but the staff said they dun have it for my car

well tell them to pull their finger out. i have personally seen the listing in the NGK book for both r32 and r33 skylines. they may be using an old book. they won't have it in stock, they will have to order it.

if they still say they can't get it, ask for 1 for a n15 SSS pulsar (sr20 motor). they should be able to find that since they aren't an import (well they are, but nissan imported them. they aren't a private import like skylines). they are the same part number.

Edited by mad082
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135291-oxygen-sensor/#findComment-2522948
Share on other sites

i just called repco australia. god they are the slackest people in the world.

gave the dude a call and asked him for a skyline o2 sensor, and straight up he says: "you'll have to do some reseach otherwise i can't get the part number for you"

wtf?!

anyway

BOSCH: 2269013007 = $ 126

NGK: 0zA395 E2 = $155

why are the skyline ones so pricey, a mate bought one for his S13 SR20 for $50 @ repco the other week!

that said there's a trader for SAu selling the NGK ones for $110 plus $10.50 postage.

i've seen posts where people have gotten direct fit sensors for like $75.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135291-oxygen-sensor/#findComment-2523748
Share on other sites

heh funny story, i asked the same dude who you rang (eug) at repco this morning while i was in store with some mates and he thought i was you....

anyway cheers for the part numbers, i will be getting my o2 sensor changed soon too. 20L/100km sux bigtime

Edited by flagger
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135291-oxygen-sensor/#findComment-2524833
Share on other sites

agreed. a new o2 sensor made no difference to my fuel economy, although some claim it made a huge difference to theirs.

from what i gather, the biggest difference between differing results (besides safc or pfc) is whether you're clocking up k's on the open road, or city driving.

my results, ~ 50L / 320kms city driving - 420kms freeway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135291-oxygen-sensor/#findComment-2525277
Share on other sites

i called NGK last week...

the guy had no listing for the rb20det

then, he said he'd do some research and call japan and see if he can get one in..

he called me back.. moral of the story? NGK don't make an O2 sensor for the rb20det

END OF STORY

well they should recall all of their catalogues that say they do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135291-oxygen-sensor/#findComment-2528021
Share on other sites

dude at repco tried to charge me $140, and $150 for the NTK and Bosch ones... wtf... then tried to sell me a universal ACA one...

just ordered one from kudos motorsports... see how things go

car is no longer running rich, bit more free reving, certainly feels a little faster...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135291-oxygen-sensor/#findComment-2528041
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...