Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

[/b] Hi Guys,

My name's Kylee...This my first post on this fourm....Just got rid of my Vl which i had for over three years and decided I needed somethin a little newer and a bit quiker. So I bought a 94 R33 GTST and was just wondering if anyone can give me the correct specs of this make (Inc kw's). I was also curious to know whether or not they come standard with LSD, I have been told many different answers. Also, just wanted to know what the HICAS light means, I know what it stands for but it keeps comin up after i have driven the car for a while. I have been told its nothin to worry about and someone even mentioned theirs stays on the whole time cos they have a non standard computer? Anyway, my car is pretty much standard and I just had it dynoed and it has 158kw's so i was curious to know how many kw's they came out with :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136240-specs-of-a-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

they came with 184kw (manual gearbox). that is at the flywheel, not the wheels. any power figure quoted by a manufacturer is at the flywheel.

and yes they come standard with lsd, but there is 2 types of lsd. most have the standard viscous lsd. some have the active lsd.

Edited by mad082
should these questions have come before you bought the car?

No, because i would have bought the car anyway. I was just curious... having answered these questions before I bought the car would have been irrelavant. Knowing how many kw's they come standard with and if they have LSD would not have changed my mind about buying one.. things can always be changed on it anyway!

hi kylee,

um good question i was also after specs on mine stocko. I have simlar model to Yours. .. i found this in the forum. One of the guys here made it, (great work btw), check it out here. http://nissanskyline.6te.net/

got loads of info on skylines stock.. um i think they were 147rwkw stock btw.

cheers

Oh ps. Hicas light comming on. isnt normal. mine comes on occasionally, (hicas diagnostic mode) where light comes on and steering tightens.. but i disconnect battery for about 15 mins, then reconnect, and its ok. I think probably sensor issue. But No mechanics or performance shops ive been too so far can figure it out. so good luck with that one. but first think is to disconnect battery, hicas fuse, Hicas computer, and check all sensors. and clean connections. if u can find someone who knows how to troubleshoot the system properly. let me know. :P

Edited by silverbulletR33
they came with 184kw (manual gearbox). that is at the flywheel, not the wheels. any power figure quoted by a manufacturer is at the flywheel.

and yes they come standard with lsd, but there is 2 types of lsd. most have the standard viscous lsd. some have the active lsd.

187kw for series 2

and less than 184 for auto R33's

Thanks guys for the input.

The hicas still came on when i had the standard steering wheel though.

I now realise after looking at the other sites that i make the extra power at the wheels from standard because i have the exhaust upgrade. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...