Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FIRST $250 WILL BE DONATED TO SKYLINESAUSTRALIA FORUM.

Supplier Lookee.com.au

Brand Supervision

All the specs please see the pics below.

price is $260 delivered by express within australia

minimum 10 people

organiser BEN

list

khunjeng

Passage31 *2

I've organised more than 100 kits in this forum so far so good..

just needs $50 deposit

ENDS IN 2 WEEKS ABOUT 15th of OCT

26_112_9296e3014015f20.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136346-hid-group-buy-australian-seller/
Share on other sites

depends how good u want the installation.

u can just put them anywhere in the engine bay or u can have a proper installation with the ballasts hidding under the headlights.

Can these just plug directly in to replace where the orginal bulb is?

Extra stuff hanging out the back doesn't bother me but is it otherwise a simple plug in thing.

How bright are these compared to the original bulbs?

What frequency is the best or what frequency are these at this price?

Does 8000-10000kHz give more reflection off fluorescent signs?

Edited by Edge

the installation itself is simple p&p but to put the ballasts properly is a hard job, sometimes u have to take off the bumper.

they are very very bright..

sry it's not about frequency, it's the colour temperature.. u can see the pic in the first post and see the differences of colours.

it states here that these are 9000k variants

3.jpg

These are great looking but does the 10,000k add any tinge of blue to it. Because from so close up you cant see the reflection it causes until you are from a distance ie incoming traffic that see's this car coming towards them. hope that makes sense, just want to clarify if 10k is much bluer, not at all or slightly.

Edited by Nozila

I mean H4 with HID Low and HID High single chamber version, according to the advertising should be $260 right. If so I'm in on this, still thinking about the difference between K - wish I could find out the colour spectrum being put out by these Xenon lights at 4300K or 6000K, Perhaps you can advise which is better for contrast at night, I haven't found a colour spectrum output graph for Xenon discharge yet.

OK here is a rambling piece to follow, after reading several sources online such as osram, aerovisions, spectra of xenon gas discharge, xenon-bulbs etc.

5500K between mercury vapour and metal halide, seems to be the best even mix of xenon, metal halides and mercury etc. for the best daylight simulating light at a guess.

Daylight simulating triphosphor fluorescent tubes made by osrtam are 6000K. Cool Daylight fluorescent tubes are at 4000K. In terms of depth and colour perception at night the higher frequencies seem better, but from my own testing it seems yellow light allows more simple contrast but less detailed contrast. So in terms of being bright enough to take advantage of colour perception and to gain maximum detail and depth perception the 6000K seems to be the best.

Likely to be more mercury in the bulbs, meaning more pressure and heat in the bulbs at 6000K, is that a good or bad thing for longer life?

Why does yellow light cut through rain and fog better than white? Since I have seperate fog lights I can get stronger intensity long(higher frequency) wavelengths of light. Also 6000K is said to have a higher circadian value for keeping you awake. It is also more comforatblet o view this light at high intensities, so I have to wonder whether for the same lumens whether it is more comfortable on the eyes to use 4300K lights at night as when you look further away it will appear less weak at the lower intensity reflections, so this is why yellow light seems to be easier to make out simple contrast but gives less detailed contrast, as the eye is used to more yellow light in low light conditions.

Toward the blue end of the green spectrum the eyes are more sensitive at night, but we are talking about subjects under illumination and this is why yellow end of the green spectrum is giving more depth.

Under very low light you will be able to see newspaper better in blue end of the spectrum, but see the black tarmac better with more light toward the yellow end of the green spectrum no matter what. Though to see detail such as read newspapers in low light you will be straining in the yellow end of the green spectrum.

So it is that if the light is brighter then 6000K is better but if the light is softer then 4000K is better even if considering both are "white light ie. containing all colours".

In conclusion 4300K is the best choice for more natural illumination for a low brightness scenario. While 6000K is best choice for a high brightness scenario.

Since someone said these bulbs are really bright the 6000K should be better in terms of being the most comfortable for the largest range of distances and produce less eye strain.

Edited by Edge

nozila ur pic looks like 6000k

to Edge

the single chamber hi/low is 100 over normal ones due to the the motor which is driving the chamber forward and backward to switch hi/low

the 4300 is the best choice of overall condition of weather but most of the people not only like it's brightness also it's colour. if u buy the 4300k there's milky white colour...

u can come to my place and have a look at the 4300k 5000k 6000k 8000k and special colour........

and i have a small fish tank to demo they are water profed

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...