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the turning angle of the rears due to hicas i belive is no more then 1.5degrees

so i doubt youll have a problem

dont quote me on this though, its something i read

as for my car, my rear gaurge just sitting "on top of the wheel" so to speak (looking at it head on), havent had a problem with scuffing

then again, i have stock wheels (205/55/16)

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actually that's a good question about the HICAS...

i can't answer it, but am interested to know myself... how wide are your tyres though, and at this height, are they going to be sitting inside the guards? you may need the lip of the rear guard rolled back.

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So, its already been lowered a bit?

Skylines don't take kindly to massive lowering. I think 1.5 - 2 inches is the most it will tolerate. Any more, and the geometry gets thrown into chaos, and it handles worse than if you had not lowered it.

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its not so much the "geometry" of the car, its the negative camber u tend to get at the rears

together with the signiture axle tramp

plus

the excessive negative camber u get when u launch hard

mine has been lowered properly (whiteline full pack handling kit)

which wasnt much, think it was around 45mm (we made it lower) and hands like a dream (together with the azenis)

but thats besides the point of RON-15H question

will he scuff the gaurds

265 rubber at the reas, dood, thats PHAT...love it :P

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I have 235/45 on 17x7" wheels. Its lowered just at the front so sits about 10cm off the ground if u look at a GTR style bar.. no problem with wheel clearance when turning.

Rear sits a bit higher, but should have no problem with the small HICAS turn (yes, its only a degree or two). When i get it lowered (they're height adjustable Zeal coilovers) another 1" so the rears sit a bit more under the guard, should still be no probs.

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if u accually look at your car the HICAS wont make a difference to gaurd rubbing, unless your car is about 2cm to the ground.

i have 255 17" x 10s and i still have room left, going to get some 285s.

it all depends what wheels you have and their offset.

the hicas swivels the rear wheels, only slightly and is extremly hard to notice.

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I have TEIN coil overs all round, and also have 17 Inch wheels (not sure of the wheel widths, 8's front 9's rear I think...and tyres, I have 235/45 on the front, and 255/40 on the back, and I don't have a problem...except when the rear is higher than the front and I'm turning such as when reversing into my driveway. You will also have to get your guards rolled...about $60-$70 each.

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I've forgotten where I read this, so it may be slightly wrong. Basically you turn the car on and turn the steering wheel left and right a few times and then pump the brake a few times. Some people say you have to then move the car forward, but I didn't have to do that. It should start the rear wheels moving (you'll feel it). If it doesn't work the first time, keep trying. You'll get some light flashing on your dash if you have error codes. I get error codes 22 and 32 - no idea how to fix them though.

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I found the text I was thinking of. It's from The Sky's The Limit from SDU.

1. Switch ignition off, transmission in neutral or auto in Park.

2. Start engine

3. Very quickly (with a couple of seconds), turn the steering wheel left and right about 20 degrees from centre five times, and then pump the brakes five times, then press the brake pedal once more _this will enter diagnostic mode.

4. Drive forwards or backwards about 5 metres at a speed less than 10km/hr, this will enter full diagnostic mode.

5. The HICAS light in the instrument cluster will be flashing quickly (for normal) or will flash a code indicating any problems.

6. Long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit.

7. Diagnostics will return to normal after five minutes, or any speed over 10km/hr, or ignition is turned off.

HICAS Diagnostic Codes 1993 - 1999

11 HICAS control unit

12 HICAS motor power supply not present

13 HICAS motor output not present

21 Vehicle speed sensor not present

22 Steering angle sensor not present

23 Steering angle sensor neutral or not present

24 Rear main sensor input not present

25 Rear sub sensor input not present

31 Parking brake sensor input not present

32 (Auto) Inhibitor switch input not present

(Manual) Neutral switch input not present

33 Engine speed signal not present

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I forgot to mention, that when u lower the car it affects the camber...which in my case was really squat which made all four wheels sit like this...../___....and of course the tyres wore on the inside....something I didn't notice until the tyres were stuffed....to cut a long story short, it cost me around $600 to get the problem fixed. Just make sure that whoever does the work knows what they are talking about. You are now better informed....talk to several people at different places. Best of luck. Your car will look and handle great when the jobs done.

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yeah, i have had no problems with my car being low,

i have 245 18's all the way around and i have got the front guards half way down the tyre (nearly on the rim) and on the rim at the back. It handles like its on rails, BUT it does bounce a little (not too bad, i can live with it) my camber was a problem but i got a camber kit in the rear and now its the goods :).

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  • 2 weeks later...

My rears have worn badly on the inside and I've just ordered a nice new set of FM901s so wanted to fix this before I wreck another set of tyres.

For anyone who is interested I just recieved a quote for the supply and fit of a rear camber kit (includes all 4 wheel alignment), price = $360.

Does this price sound about right?

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