Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My fault I was confusing him with QikStagea

i can see how that could have happened, pretty common mistake. ....or not.... lol

Why would they make different hinges for gtr and gtt? seems a lil bit odd, hey. Not interchangeable at all? Is it because of the different body width? Didnt realise that would effect the bonnet, thought it was just guards.

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what brand guards are they? and where did you get them from? cost? do you have to put the gtr rad support in or are you just modifying it to fit???

Cheers ADRIAN

Guards are genuine Masa Motorsport from Japan. Cost was 45000yen pair, which ended up near $1100 delivered to Aust.

The guards will be copied soon and will sell for here at approx $450-500 pair.

Radiator support is R34 GTT/GTR and details of fitment are in the first post.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
hows it going man the car looks wicked...

looks even better in the rear vision mirror though :P

have you still got the old front bar ifso is it for sale..

I still have the M'sFactory front bar for sale

PM me for further details

The radiator support is now welded in

Next step is to repaint the engine bay

  • 3 weeks later...

I have added some new pic's of my (slow) progress

Have fitted and painted the radiator support aswell as painting most of the engine bay with the engine still in

Had to remove engine bay wiring, brake lines, abs unit, brake booster etc

Came up really good esp compared to the factory paint job

Also half way thru fitting R34 GTT calipers and disc front and rear aswell as a manual gearbox conversion

  • 1 month later...
hows the progress goin darrin

The Engine bay is back together and car is drivable (around the yard)

The brake conversion is finished and the manual conversion just needs the gearbox swapped. pedals and hand brake done

Have just refitted front for final fit up and just need to finish mounting the front bar.

Then I can drive the car around on the road, un painted so I can get some exterior painting quotes

Before car is painted, I will get the manual gearbox in so mechanic's will not damage the paint

Will be getting the entire front and both complete sides and rear bar painted to tidy the car up.

Then can will fit the Apexi power FC and tune along with all the other mods incl turbo upgrade.

Mike,

I could send the brakes to you now if you want and the gearbox in a couple of weeks?

Brakes come with brand new pads front and rear aswell

The Engine bay is back together and car is drivable (around the yard)

The brake conversion is finished and the manual conversion just needs the gearbox swapped. pedals and hand brake done

Have just refitted front for final fit up and just need to finish mounting the front bar.

Then I can drive the car around on the road, un painted so I can get some exterior painting quotes

Before car is painted, I will get the manual gearbox in so mechanic's will not damage the paint

Will be getting the entire front and both complete sides and rear bar painted to tidy the car up.

Then can will fit the Apexi power FC and tune along with all the other mods incl turbo upgrade.

Mike,

I could send the brakes to you now if you want and the gearbox in a couple of weeks?

Brakes come with brand new pads front and rear aswell

na just send altogether bro

  • 4 weeks later...
is she all painted up yet mate im dyin to see her when she is finished

No I have not touched the car for a month

I have been building a 3 1/2 car garage extension to the front house, which take up all my time. I only have 2 hands and I am not a builder.

The roof is half on now, so in a week or 2 I will have the roof finished so I can have some where to work on the car at night under lights durung the week.

I removed the factory door mirrors a week ago and fitted Ganador mirrors and found more rust hidden under the mirrors

You could not see any rust when the mirrors were fitted, but once removed I found a big hole.

I am dying to see it painted too, it has only been 18 months since I started this project.

Ps

I picked up a nice Apexi 420PS BB turbo the other day for it

post-14923-1178103828.jpg

Sounds like a big job Darrin, Congrats on the progress.

Why do all the good stageas have to be in Brissie or Perth :thumbsup: Haha. Sydney is catching up.. W00t!

How much has the project cost you so far(if you don't mind me asking)? and for the manual conversion by itself?

Dad and I completed a manual conversion last year on our R31 wagon, total cost was 1K after selling auto etc which was a pretty good 'investment' in our opinion! :)

Edited by StageaHoon
How much has the project cost you so far(if you don't mind me asking)? and for the manual conversion by itself?

Front end parts only $4.5k plus paint and labour

Manual conversion with R33 GTR box $3K plus labour, could be done cheaper with R32 box

Very Nice.

R33 GTR boxes obviously dearer because 1. its a GTR and 2. High demand/hard to get?.

2 was an issue for us and dad needed good clutch for towing the boat so we ended up getting a heavy duty racing EXEDY item which also put the cost up(which also makes it quite the task to learn to drive with aswell.. :S I'll get there eventually), but we kept it down by performing the job ourselves over a long weekend. Dad is still to fit and connect up the manual computer.. better get on his back about it before he forgets again haha

Very Nice.

R33 GTR boxes obviously dearer because 1. its a GTR and 2. High demand/hard to get?.

2 was an issue for us and dad needed good clutch for towing the boat so we ended up getting a heavy duty racing EXEDY item which also put the cost up(which also makes it quite the task to learn to drive with aswell.. :S I'll get there eventually), but we kept it down by performing the job ourselves over a long weekend. Dad is still to fit and connect up the manual computer.. better get on his back about it before he forgets again haha

R33 gtr boxes are a little more. I got mine for a good price of $800

You can get r32 gtr boxes from $500 and GTS4 boxes for even less, but they are not as strong.

R33 and late 94 R32 boxes use a pull type clutch which cost twice as much as a push type clutch

I bought a s/hand pull clutch for $100 and then paid over $800 to rebuild it from Jim Berry - Race clutch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.
    • I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.
    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
×
×
  • Create New...