Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My project 33 gtst

Previous Mods

3" flying dump front pipe

Stocko Ceramic Cat

3.5" cat back to 4" tip

Heavy duty Clutch

Stock motor top and bottom

Stock Fuel pump

Stock turbo set 7lb normal driving to 10.5lb every now and then right foot driving

Running stock tyres

Coilover suspension

heavy duty clutch UNKNOWN

Stock Flywheel

Apexi PFC

running motul 8100 xcess oils

Nulon Coolant

Hybrid FMIC

Platinum Plugs

Split fire coil packs

K+N Pod filter custom cover

Made 180 RWKWs with above mods

New Mods

Hks 3037 Pro s Turbo running 0.68 housing internal Gated turbo

Custom split dump pipe to 3" front pipe (Bloody hks housings have to be different)

Custom water lines braided oil line

Not going to change cat converter

Tomei 248 lph fuel pump

555 High flow injectors from deatchworks

z32 AFM and plug

Gates Racing Timing belt

Exeedy Clutch Rated 300 rwkws Thanks C+B

Running on stock top and bottom

Oh and i forgot stainless intake pipe once the gb has there orders

Metal Cat it is 700+ cfm Cheers batmbl

Future to do mods in no specific order

Cams most likely tomei poncams cheap less than 800 delivered

Slotted rotors

Better Wheels

Better Suspension i hate coilovers

Pineapples

Forgies + head p+p (internal motor work)

Better Front bar: (Somewhere amongst the others)

Previous Best of 180 rwkws

Expecting 240 to 270 rwkws cams dependent i say

All awaiting on compression tests and leakdown tests to how soon the project goes ahead if ok should be

good for november.

:thumbsup:

Comments welcome

Cheers devils

Edited by Devils_Advocate21
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137881-my-project-33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Will potential power be power reduced? Yes. More Importantly your turbo will not be able to produce boost as "efficiently". This will result in increased lag and higher turbo temps. You can pick up second hand decent CATS for <$200. It's worthwhile investment which you will never have to touch again.

hmm interesting, you guys would be right hmmm awell cat it is then :) still the go ahead will be known date from friday arvo once i get comp/leakdown test done

So far so good, i mean its not consuming oil or turning it black before 5000 kms of moderate driving, not blowing smoke of any sort, so i can see from the small picture it should be fine, the large picture well will be known on friday guys ;)

I guess suggestions would be very much appreciated on the catco cats from bosimporting, which one would be ample for my needs also results if any would be great aswell cheers guys

A

Edited by Devils_Advocate21

Ok so my compression values are in and leak down values what do you guys think:

Cyl1: 155 8%

Cyl2: 155 9%

Cyl3: 150 10%

Cyl4: 155 12%

Cyl5: 150 12%

Cyl6: 155 9%

Since last dyno made 178.9 rwkws before front pipe install so still running standard front pipe and dump

Also did power run whilst doing comp values to see if still in tune, seems that it is and with the new front pipe being the 3" complete front and dump comes to a new value of 197.3 rwkws.

The difference in IT's was 39 before and new of 41 with this one

So i think it would be safe to say that my project should be done mid november now :laugh: woohoo

Cheers

devils

Edited by Devils_Advocate21

No mention of boost controller?

Assume you've already got one, but if not, you need to ensure you have something that will reliably hold boost if you're looking to push that amount of power, particularly on std internals...

Boost spikes = very bad news on std internals.

A few to consider...

Greddy Profec B Spec II (I have one of these - works well)

Apexi AVCR

Turbosmart Eboost II

Was running the hybrid boost controler. but have found its in effecient at holding bosot, although the hks turbo has an addjustable actuator on it i may just use that at the moment instead for boost control and later move to a better brand controller, will let you know how i go and keep you guys updated

No mention of boost controller?

Assume you've already got one, but if not, you need to ensure you have something that will reliably hold boost if you're looking to push that amount of power, particularly on std internals...

Boost spikes = very bad news on std internals.

A few to consider...

Greddy Profec B Spec II (I have one of these - works well)

Apexi AVCR

Turbosmart Eboost II

  • 3 weeks later...

The two of the latter ones best bet i say, pending your power goal, and big difference in prices. will post dyno results next week when all done, On another note, regarding the highflow cat, did anyone notice a Sound drop, either im going deaf(I dont think so) but have noticed that since i put the cat on, my exhaust note/loudness has droped dramatically, quiet to compare against what it was?? Go figure

Cheers devils

Me either, I'm torn between a 2835proS, the 3037proS, and the GT3076R, so atm all dyno results will help me decide.
Edited by Devils_Advocate21
The two of the latter ones best bet i say, pending your power goal, and big difference in prices. will post dyno results next week when all done, On another note, regarding the highflow cat, did anyone notice a Sound drop, either im going deaf(I dont think so) but have noticed that since i put the cat on, my exhaust note/loudness has droped dramatically, quiet to compare against what it was?? Go figure

Cheers Adam

Maybe your old stock cat hollowed itself out and was basically functioning like a punched out cat. So when you chucked the hi flow cat on, you put a bit more restriction back into the exhaust system and thus the drop in noise. It shouldnt be that noticeable tho imo even if ur cat was 100% hollow

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...