Jump to content
SAU Community

Shell V-power

Kennedy

By Kennedy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

gtt23 Enthusiast

gtt23

Posted
Posted

on 98 (ultimate/optimax) previously had to pull boost back a touch to prevent higher knocks,

on 100 (extreme/Vpower racing) have been able to re-up boost to as previous yet rarely get a high knock.

(pfc is still tuned to 98 fuel as would hate to get stuck in stix with wrong tuning to fuel available.)

works for me,

john.

Kushil Abeysinghe Enthusiast

Kushil Abeysinghe

Posted
Posted

tyred on my R33 GTST S2 for the first time about a week ago (shell near garden city), it certainly feels a lot better, no mods just exahust and still stock ecu !!.....

and hense petrol is anyway 10 cents cheaper here in brisy then in melbourne (moved up 1 month ago)..the price still feels better.....

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

im pretty sure its now called v-power coz thats what its called in europe. sort of a would wide standard.

ps. anyone ever read the "new unleaded" brocher where it "gets you further"

down the bottom it says in a small disclaimer that the fuel used during the test is "diferant" from what is curently available localy lol so yah it doesnt get you further lol

eMsta Grand Master

eMsta

Posted
Posted

i have a question - I pumped up with v-power today (had a quarter tank of ultimate left). Came to about 33 ltrs - but then it only came to 3/4 tank full :(

would there be something to do with expansion of the fuel or is it just that my guage is stuffed? Im guessing my gauge is stuffed.

eMsta Grand Master

eMsta

Posted
Posted
Yeah sounds like the gauge is stuffed. Did your fuel light come on though?

nah cos i filled it up when there was quarter tank of petrol....its just wierd - i will see how it goes when i fill it next time (if i get to fill it before my next service). I do know that skyline fuel gauges are notorious for being faulty.

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

SK

With your head work, have you run it up on the dyno?

Have you found higher power figures, different boost curve, faster or slower to boost, better or worse economy and response?

Thanks

BASS

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
SK

With your head work, have you run it up on the dyno?

Have you found higher power figures, different boost curve, faster or slower to boost, better or worse economy and response?

Thanks

BASS

Hi, not on the dyno, I am road tuning it. At the moment, with the standard turbo, I have 10 psi at ~2,000 rpm because of the ignition advance I can use, +18 degrees (compared ot the default maps) at many load points. As a result the response is lightning fast.

As for ecomomy, it happily runs 15.1 to 1 A/F ratios at cruise (open loop), with absolutely zero hesitiation or surge. So I can confidenmtly change the lambda aim table when I turn closed loop back on.

:( cheers ;)

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

SK. So headwork is a good option on a car, if for instance you are bored and want to pull the head off and have get it tidied up?

You won't loose any grunt?

without changing valves and all that, do you see it as a good thing to do once you have done turbo, injectors etc etc.

How does it go on the $ / results graph?

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

Just going back to the title of the thread for a second while we wait for God to respond... I used some of this fuel on the track the other day.

I was expecting to be able to put some more ignition timing in it but knock levels didn't decrease with the change of fuel so I left it alone. I felt maybe 5 more rwkw. However much is the smallest amount I can feel using the seat-of-the-pants-o-meter.

  • 1 month later...
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

As postred in the other thread where you asked the same questions

Been using 100 ron in the R33GTST since January (almost 12 months). I put an adjustable FPR in recently to raise the fuel pressure and a GTR fuel pump. I checked the fuel lines at the same time and they are in perfect condition.

:D cheers :D

dineth Proficient

dineth

Posted
Posted (edited)

is it me or why do i still think that my car feels nicer and smoother and 'quicker' on Vortex 98 even compared to V power racing?

Car: R33 gts-t (auto) with basic mods

my best mate with a stock R33 Gts-t Manual has the same opinion?

Edited by dineth
  • 3 months later...
datoecutter Rookie

datoecutter

Posted
Posted

ive been running vpower now 4 about 2 months in teh 1st week the motor started to run cleaner rev more freely and this improved all week. ive gone bac and tried ultimate etc and

also fuel economy when drivin normally (not v often 4 me lol ) has improved (550 km per tank good? )_

those out there using the ethanol blends from the discounters beware there some dodgy servos (no way ? :( ) out there upping there eth blend to cut costs........

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted
As postred in the other thread where you asked the same questions

Been using 100 ron in the R33GTST since January (almost 12 months). I put an adjustable FPR in recently to raise the fuel pressure and a GTR fuel pump. I checked the fuel lines at the same time and they are in perfect condition.

:rofl: cheers :rofl:

So have I. seems to be great.

I have a 100RON joint near my house..I only drive the car 1 time per week so the extra cost means nothing to me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Got the gearbox in and the front drive shafts.
    • rahilp
      Requirements for Xenon Headlights? (Possible Solution)

      By rahilp · Posted

      Hi There I went through a rabbit hole of reading about Xenon headlights and the ADR regulations for having them installed. As people have been defected by running factory xenon I was researching in ways to make them compliant. Everyone always say needs to be self leveling and have washer installed, which I don't necessarily agree with. For this argument I'm using R34 as reference as I'm more aware on the construction of the headlight compared to the R33 Xenon, which may still be the exact same case.   For the self leveling clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles As you can see the bold text "these manually adjustable devices from driver seats" are fine to use. As Series 1 Xenon model headlights do have a 4 level adjuster on the right near the ignition (however not series 2) then these model are consider compliant in that argument.   For the Self Cleaning aspect of this argument clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles Now i can understand the argument that Xenon will need a washer as they are over 2000 lumens, but I clicked on the 12 at the end of that sentence and it takes me to the end notes which states R34 for headlight lenses are plastic, not sure if PL is mark as I don't currently have my skyline to confirm that marking is there. But could you not technically get a lenses with the PL marking on it and then get away with the argument that you need a washer. I went through a quick read of the adr and might have missed something else that may cause them to be non-complaint.    But wouldn't these technically be complaint headlights   Would love to hear other people input on this and shed some light   Edit In regard to the the washer portion I might be mistaken ADR 45 (which I believe is Regulation NO.45) states 12 cd (candela) I dont understand that portion in regarding to calculating the candela if anyone can shed some light. Otherwise I guess throw in a washer for the headlight and you definitely comply.
    • r32-25t
      R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Took it to all Japan day, flogged the hell out of it and took it all, am a very very happy man  don’t know how that ended up in Greg’s thread before
    • ARB26
      Stagea 260RS seats

      By ARB26 · Posted

      Hey Nismo, any chance in the world you still have these seats?
    • Lithium
      Forced Performance Hta Turbos

      By Lithium · Posted

      I'd say closer to OG GTX3582R, just smaller trim - so 59mm inducer/82mm exducer as opposed to 62/82 for the first gen GTX3582R. Yeah EFRs were boss, the EFR8474 is still an absolute beast and it perplexes me that people still go to things like Turbosmart/Garrett etc when the results people are getting with those are pretty unremarkable compared to what you could get with a turbo available well before those options came out.  DriftSquid (I think) "upgraded" from an EFR9174 to a Turbosmart turbo and promised a comparison video - and kinda shuffled awkwardly and did a bit of diversion from the fact that they didn't get any improvement going to the currently massively hyped brand of turbo from a turbo that was a bit of a frankenstein that had been well superceded in it's own range before the Turbosmart unit he put on there even came out. I suspect the EFR would outperform most Xonas for what a lot of less-insane RB owners would go for, in the 400-600kw range but the Xonas are looking hard to beat up to maybe in the mid 700kw range at this stage- basically where EFRs don't really reach, and before the Precision turbos take over.  What the Xonas do well in the "EFR range" is be easier to package etc, and work very well if a divided housing doesn't suit your application.  
×
×
  • Create New...