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My Latest Dyno Results!

pixel8r

By pixel8r,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

As the title says I got my Stagea tuned today.

I went to HiTech Dyno (run by John Keen who ran Turbo Tune many years ago, incidentally also the brother of Bill Keen from ATS who fitted my turbo). They have a very good reputation here in SA and prices were very good. ($250 to install and tune safc).

Had new spark plugs fitted, SAFC1 (blue screen) installed and tuned, and a JRD boost controller installed (similar to the $22 manual boost controller).

Very happy with the result - 170.2 rwkw!!

It was on a 2WD dyno so i'm not sure how to convert to awkw (I've always thought it was just rwkw-20=awkw - someone correct me on this)..

and if you follow the boost graph, this figure is at only 9psi :P

Mods are:

- GT30 turbo (machined into stock R34 housing)

- 3" turbo-back exhaust

- JRD boost controller set to 11psi

- SAFC1

- Apexi Panel Air Filter (dry type).

- MV auto trans valve upgrade.

Boost builds quickly to 11psi but then soon starts dropping off down to 9psi. Not bad from a $35 boost controller tho (that includes Postage).

I dont have a AFR graph - but I'm thinking of calling into the place sometime and getting some extra printouts - I've heard they keep the files on their computer...

Here's the dyno printout, showing power and boost:

post-23960-1160557327.jpg

:P

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138246-my-latest-dyno-results/
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pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

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Nice! So is that a 70% power gain over the turbo on it's own? (I think you had a disappointing 100kw run before)

Luke

Not quite. The 100kw run was on a 4wd dyno.

The exhaust made the biggest difference. I reckon I picked up nearly 40awkw after that due to the bigger turbo (normally an exhaust would give ~20kw extra).

Then with the safc install and tune that would've picked up a bit extra...

Its about a 40% power gain (exhaust, safc, jrd boost controller). :P

Not only that, it has good response now too.

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
  • Author
Posted
nice, at 9psi too! Roughly, I gather that to be around 145awk then?

will you be doing a larger fmic and raising boost? Im sure you could have an easy 200rwkw with the next tune :P

Cooling wasn't a problem. The issue was more about fuel...

The safc can only correct so much and at higher airflow with the gt30 turbo John reckoned I'd be getting too close to the ecu's fuel cut. Not sure how to overcome that exactly...

160awkw was my target, and I would've thought 170rwkw is closer to 150awkw (??) so thats close enough for me.

A better quality boost controller that holds 11psi constant would give me the 160awkw I was after.

There is more potential in the car than this but at this point I have a good reliable car making decent power and I'm very happy with that. :D

fcruz3r Experienced

fcruz3r

Posted
Posted

thats a decent amount of power to put on the tarmac ....gr8 results there....now u mentioned fuel was a problem...do u reckon a higher flowing fuel pump and a fuel regulator is gonna help towards a 200rwkw benchmark?

would be interesting to see what my s1 would be capable of using the stock turbo @10psi normal and 12psi angry mode....but that will be a month away still coz im pretty broke at the moment (day care bills for my young ones really biting into my budget)

oxford1327 Experienced

oxford1327

Posted
Posted

what did you have to do when tuning on a 2wd dyno unit? as in did you just pull a fuse or was the atessa system somewhat more complicated to get around?

just curious as i am getting my computer fitted mid next week in my series2 manual so would be nice to know if its safe to just yank the fuse, or do i have to do a whole lot more?

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

must drop the front driveshaft.

dont just pull the fuse - attessa repairs arnt cheap.

madaz drove his GT4 with a space-saver rim on for a while, shagged his system, was a 4k fix I think. always drop the shaft.

:dry:

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
  • Author
Posted
must drop the front driveshaft.

dont just pull the fuse - attessa repairs arnt cheap.

madaz drove his GT4 with a space-saver rim on for a while, shagged his system, was a 4k fix I think. always drop the shaft.

:)

yep, they dropped the front driveshaft AND pulled the fuse (just clearing that up). :)

the r32 gtr's could be put into rwd by just pulling the fuse but anything later than that requires the front driveshaft removed as well.

:)

fcruz3r: not sure if fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator will allow me to get more power. My knowledge on it all is very limited but I'd guess that these would definitely help, and would be required to get more power, but on their own they may not be enough. At the moment there is no issue with fuel at all. The only problem was that if I raise the boost any higher than 12psi the ecu cuts the fuel so John from hitech dyno made sure it was going to be safe as is. There doesn't appear to be any issue at all with the car right now.

As far as I know the ecu will cut fuel once it detects too much air flow (and hence would require more fuel than the ecu thinks the car can handle, and therefore it cuts fuel to prevent damage). So just the ability to provide more fuel wouldn't be enough as far as I see it. I know the apexi SITC (ignition timing) allows better control over ignition timing and also allows the safc to be tuned better (independant of ignition timing) but I'm not sure how to remove the fuel cut issue etc...

Either way, I've spent over $2k on the car in the last month so its time to leave it alone for a while and enjoy it in its current state. And I must say it IS very enjoyable right now.

The safc has made a very noticeable difference in power, from midrange right to the top end, and sounds so much "cleaner" and nicer than before the tune. Before it ran very rich (could smell petrol after driving hard) and the power really dropped off at the top end as I presume it possibly was hitting R&R mapping at high revs...either way it had a flat spot near 4000-4500 rpm and failed to pick up after that.

But now its got very smooth power delivery all the way. Its something like 50% more power than before I did the exhaust and safc etc. and the difference is just incredible. :)

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted
what did you have to do when tuning on a 2wd dyno unit? as in did you just pull a fuse or was the atessa system somewhat more complicated to get around?

just curious as i am getting my computer fitted mid next week in my series2 manual so would be nice to know if its safe to just yank the fuse, or do i have to do a whole lot more?

oxford are you taking it to UAS. they have done at least 2 manuals now and have/are building some experience with them.

oxford1327 Experienced

oxford1327

Posted
Posted

no i wont be takin my car to UAS.

i am in ballarat in victoria so am taking it to a local mob i just wanted to clarify some things that i have had conflicting opinions on.

EG: #1 dont hafta take shafts out but need to bleed off pressure in the atessa system, #2 do hafta take shafts out or will burn clutches out, #3 if do chose to take shafts out it will lunch the front diff because of the lash when there is no load on it etc....

thats why i thouhgt i would ask some of the guys on here and get a 15th opinion.

i have since spoken to andy (EGA41T) on the phone and he has assured me that when his was done they took the shafts out and seemed to be all good so i am gonna take that info to my tuner as a good recommendation.

person i am gettin to do the power fc install was just not sure as he had never seen let alone tuned a stagea before he laid eyes on mine couple weeks ago, even though he has worked plenty of skylines over in the past he just wanted to be sure so as to not damage my car.

fcruz3r Experienced

fcruz3r

Posted
Posted

hey steve....reckon u could get some pics of where u mounted the safc...am looking for ideas and atm the only place i can think of is just in front of the gear leaver which i think will make the coin box and drink holder useless.

unless of course i get a new head unit and remove the crap jap shiet thats in there...but thats gonna cost $$$

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hey steve....reckon u could get some pics of where u mounted the safc...am looking for ideas and atm the only place i can think of is just in front of the gear leaver which i think will make the coin box and drink holder useless.

unless of course i get a new head unit and remove the crap jap shiet thats in there...but thats gonna cost $$$

haha a photo won't be necessary at the moment. Its not actually mounted anywhere.

They ran the cable around so it sticks out just to the right of the passenger seat beside where the stereo is (it pokes out under the plastic).

All I've done is place it under the passenger seat so you can see the cable but not the unit - and it doesn't get thrown around when I accelerate or turn.

It would look great mounted on the dash somewhere but I'm just concerned about getting pulled over and being defected for it. :)

Not sure where to mount it. I'm thinking just on the side wall there to the left of the stereo and under the glovebox. Any other ideas? :D

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
fcruz3r: not sure if fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator will allow me to get more power. My knowledge on it all is very limited but I'd guess that these would definitely help, and would be required to get more power, but on their own they may not be enough. At the moment there is no issue with fuel at all. The only problem was that if I raise the boost any higher than 12psi the ecu cuts the fuel so John from hitech dyno made sure it was going to be safe as is. There doesn't appear to be any issue at all with the car right now.

As far as I know the ecu will cut fuel once it detects too much air flow (and hence would require more fuel than the ecu thinks the car can handle, and therefore it cuts fuel to prevent damage). So just the ability to provide more fuel wouldn't be enough as far as I see it. I know the apexi SITC (ignition timing) allows better control over ignition timing and also allows the safc to be tuned better (independant of ignition timing) but I'm not sure how to remove the fuel cut issue etc...

You have a couple of easy (relatively cheap) ways to achieve a result;

1. Fit a larger fuel pump, a GTR one would be fine ($200 or so on the for sale forum)

2. A Nismo adj fuel pressure regulator ($150 from Nengun)

3. Increase the fuel pressure to ~45 psi (standard is 34-36 psi)

4. Replace the fuel hoses and use better clamps, the standard ones are not up to the higher pressure.

5. Use the SAFC to lean it off (lower the AFM voltage input to the ECU) as required at low loads, where the increase fuel pressure has richened it up too much.

6. You shouldn’t have to apply too much SAFC correction at higher revs (over ~5,500 rpm) as the increase fuel pressure should do that for you

7. Then use an SITC to advance/retard the ignition timing as required. They are getting hard to find, so if you don’t already have one, start looking now.

That should get you to around 215-220 rwkw which is about as much as the standard injectors are going to cope with (even at the higher fuel pressure).

:D cheers :P

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
#1 dont hafta take shafts out but need to bleed off pressure in the atessa system

#2 do hafta take shafts out or will burn clutches out

#3 if do chose to take shafts out it will lunch the front diff because of the lash when there is no load on it

1. You remove front tail shaft, not the drive shafts. Can bleed off pressure, but it's messy and you have to bleed the air out when replacing it. Simpler to just remove the front tailshaft, takes about 10 minutes.

2. 100% BS

3. 100% BS

:D cheers :P

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You have a couple of easy (relatively cheap) ways to achieve a result;

1. Fit a larger fuel pump, a GTR one would be fine ($200 or so on the for sale forum)

2. A Nismo adj fuel pressure regulator ($150 from Nengun)

3. Increase the fuel pressure to ~45 psi (standard is 34-36 psi)

4. Replace the fuel hoses and use better clamps, the standard ones are not up to the higher pressure.

5. Use the SAFC to lean it off (lower the AFM voltage input to the ECU) as required at low loads, where the increase fuel pressure has richened it up too much.

6. You shouldn’t have to apply too much SAFC correction at higher revs (over ~5,500 rpm) as the increase fuel pressure should do that for you

7. Then use an SITC to advance/retard the ignition timing as required. They are getting hard to find, so if you don’t already have one, start looking now.

That should get you to around 215-220 rwkw which is about as much as the standard injectors are going to cope with (even at the higher fuel pressure).

:( cheers :(

wow, so are you suggesting that I could get around 200awkw for less than $1000 from here?

I do want to keep it safe so the engine still lasts a long time so dont want to push the stock internals too far to the limits.

Still, this would be a great upgrade for sometime in the future (maybe this time next year).

Gotta love the upgrade potential of turbo cars. :)

One thing I would assume with the above list is that because there is talk of increasing fuel pressure and making more power, there would also be a negative impact on fuel economy as a result. Something I'll need to weigh up if the opportunity to do these mods ever arises :P

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