Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I was just wondering if anyone has experienced trouble once getting over 300wrkw with an RB25DET. The engine has enough mods under the sun to support it but once you start to run a fair whack of boost(~1.5)the power just drops off after 4500-500rpm thought it was spark so we put in a CDI and didnt seem to help. it seem to be pointing to weak valve springs springs but it has tomei springs, only standard cams though, runs approx. 8.7:1 compression and a 107 or 109 RON fuel. Anyone got any ideas?

Has anyone every had trounble with there VVT/VCT or whatever its called?

Any thoughts would be helpful thanks fella's

Cheers :(

Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138519-trouble-over-300rwkw-with-rb25det/
Share on other sites

Is the CDI working properly? What condition are the coil in or does CDI replace the coils?

personally i wouldnt have chosen the CDI route, the HKS ignitor box thingy is the way to go, keep the stock coils that way

What about the exhaust?

Care to list all the mods/specs etc? Might be something a miss in there :(

I'm fairly new to the RB engines, but in alot of other engines, it'd either indicate turbo running out (Although this would equate to a pressure drop, which you haven't mentioned) or most likely the heads/cam aren't flowing enough.

Coil have been replaced with the CDI system theres enough spark there to light half of tassie :dry: I think the turbo is a GT3540? So its not outta puff. Exhaust is 3.5" so that shouldnt be a problem. This is not my car, im just trying to find out some info for them. The head is also ported so that shouldnt be a problem.

On the dyno graph it heads straigh up looking like its gonna too 400kw but then get to 4500-5000rpm and just falls over, not a miss but just faids away and makes around 300-320rwkw

Edited by muaythailuke

I cant see it being the head its not like it was hugly ported just cleaned up the dags etc. I dont think its the dyno either as they have had more powerful cars on there without trouble with wheelspin.

I will try and get the dyno graph scanned onto computer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
    • Bit difficult to follow. Have a look below and see what the standard R32 layout was like. Note there was a restrictor in place immediately before "turbocharged pressure control solenoid" that, if removed, magically got you 1 bar boost.
    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
×
×
  • Create New...