Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want to upgrade my pads. I was going to go for the RB74's, but it seems they are very loud (squealy) and create a lot of brake dust, neither of which I particularly want.

One of the other primary candidates is EBC Green stuff, but in my opinion they cost too much and wear out too quickly. I think I'd rather put up with the dust and noise of the RB74.

However I was wondering, the people getting noise from their RB74's, do you have slotted discs? The slots are meant to help with glazing/noise but I don't know how much, if at all. If slotted rotors fixed the noise problem I could put up with the dust.

I will also consider other options! (but not Bendix pads)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13976-brake-pads/
Share on other sites

/me kicks Duncan in da nuts :)

Ok, the reason why I don't want Bendix again is because I had Ultimates in my previous car (VS Commodore). I could get the pads to fade VERY easily, just with spirited street driving. This isn't even exceeding the speed limit, just accelerating hard up to the limit and braking hard whenever required.

The worst incident was after one night's hooning with a carful of passengers I went to pull up in a dead end street and it took about 3 seconds for the pads to bite even though my foot was hard on the brakes. I'm lucky I didn't mount the curb! I drove home sedately after that and decided to not buy Bendix pads anymore.

Keep in mind that these were the Ultimates, which have a lot of dust and chew rotors probably around the same as the RB74's, but they're only rated to 550 degrees. Since these are the best Bendix have to offer, I can't see myself buying Bendix pads again unless they come up with something better.

Oh, can someone pleeease tell me where to buy the RB74's? A lot of you seem to have them, where can I get them from?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13976-brake-pads/#findComment-278778
Share on other sites

*Ouch*

I use ultimates on the track all the time, I do get some fade, but never serious. And I'm sure there's witnesses to agree I don't go easy on them :)

Another possible cause/contribution to the fade you had in the commodore is old brake fluid, if you use top quality fluid and change it every 3 months you may find significantly better stopping. Also, the skyline has bigger rotors on a lighter car and therefore is not as prone to fade.

The reason I'd still suggest them is as you go for more serious (track style) pads, the louder/squeakier and dustier they become, and in the case of some high end race style pads they stop worse than regular pads when they are cold (ie 99% of the time on the road).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13976-brake-pads/#findComment-278872
Share on other sites

Duncan, I'm thinking that most of the brake fade on the Commodore was attributed to the small rotors with single pot callipers, so I probably *wouldn't* get anywhere near as much fade on the Skyline. Old brake fluid could also be a contributing factor though. I'll never know, because soon after that incident I replaced the front brakes with the twin pot VT's. Problem mostly solved :P Though I still got some fade on the cheaper but still heavy duty pads.

But even still, the Ultimates are only rated to 550 degrees and are dusty as hell and hurt your rotors, I'm just thinking that for similar money and side effects the RB74 would be a better choice. Have we got any options other than Ultimates, RB74's, or Greenstuff?

Ta for the info Poyz. If I can't find any other alternatives I think I'll get the RB74's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13976-brake-pads/#findComment-279136
Share on other sites

talkign about this, its very important how u wear the brakes in for the first few hundred kms, i bought some shit pads for my commodore and they kinda stayed on and got very hot, and dint breakin propley, all the time after that i had lots of dust and squeeling, put new ones in did it all propley and it worked fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13976-brake-pads/#findComment-279718
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

CAR R32 GTR

STOCK ROTORS

DOT 4 castrol brake fluid

Stock Nissan GTR pads worked quite well up to a point, high wear rate, low dust not much noise, average pedal feel though

Bendix Ultimate. fade very easily, lots of dust, lots of smoke, but for $85 per end you can not expect a lot. I put these on because I could not get anything else quickly

Pagid RS4-2. no fade yet, some dust, they squeal quite a lot, good pedal feel, and great initial bite. the main problem is the price approx $400 each end.

CAR RX7

Have also used mintex comp pads but not on a datsun. they squeal when cold, good feel though, price was about $200 an end.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13976-brake-pads/#findComment-303443
Share on other sites

JimX,

Ever consider it was the (crap) Holden brakes, nothing to do with the pads.

I have Ultimates on my R32, and over Easter did some sprints (4 lap sets) at Willowbank. Never experienced any sign of fade.

Yes they are dusty, but I haven't any experience of them chewing rotors.

I reckon - bang-for-your-buck - you can't go past them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13976-brake-pads/#findComment-303458
Share on other sites

Im running ebc greenstuff, very quiet, though pretty average pads, sure they stop but really didn't impress me.

Im looking at getting into the group buy for new rotors, and getting ferdo rs2000 or perhaps the 2500. These pads seem to have the best rep from what ive read.

think they come in round 150-200 each?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13976-brake-pads/#findComment-304195
Share on other sites

Originally posted by blind_elk

JimX,

Ever consider it was the (crap) Holden brakes, nothing to do with the pads.

I have Ultimates on my R32, and over Easter did some sprints (4 lap sets) at Willowbank. Never experienced any sign of fade.

Yes they are dusty, but I haven't any experience of them chewing rotors.

I reckon - bang-for-your-buck - you can't go past them.

Hey, blind_elk, what type of "bang" for your buck are you referring to? :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13976-brake-pads/#findComment-316193
Share on other sites

Originally posted by blind_elk

JimX,

Ever consider it was the (crap) Holden brakes, nothing to do with the pads.

I have Ultimates on my R32, and over Easter did some sprints (4 lap sets) at Willowbank. Never experienced any sign of fade.

Yes they are dusty, but I haven't any experience of them chewing rotors.

I reckon - bang-for-your-buck - you can't go past them.

Yeah the more I think about it, the more it was just because the rotors were too small on the Commodore. The Skyline has MUCH bigger brakes, and the car is like 100kg lighter too (compared to VS V8). 550 degrees still isn't very hot to have your pads fade, but I'm guessing it would be a lot harder to break that barrier on a Skyline.

I think I will consider Ultimates again for my next set of pads :) Although the dust is VERY annoying to me. Are the RB74's any more or less dusty?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13976-brake-pads/#findComment-316306
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...