Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The amount of boxes that arrives at our house every week, most people must think we do this shit for a living, lol just a weekend hobbie.

Wish i had a month off again to, keep chipping away at it Cal, it will look like a million bucks soon enough, it's hard to make a RB25 look nice.

We cant all have 26's :P

My little 25 does the job

Fritz: Didn't realise you said "your" fuse cover, Might be interested in that....

anyway, heres the options I've thought of and had a quick play in photoshop with:

Silver

silver.jpg

Blue

Blue.jpg

Black

black.jpg

Kinda like black but think it wont look as good when its done

Who thinks what?

With the amount of blue in the engine bay, like a silicon lines, strut bar, etc. I would probably go blue and try match it in with the other blues, plus the mixture of chrome plenum, stainless turbo piping and every time else plain alloy alot of mixtures of silvers looks a bit yuck, sorry for my f**k up opinions Cal ignore me lol. Good looking engine bays have to stick to a basic colour scheme very few colour my favourite black and chrome. but blue and silver is good, my 33 got to the point where the was to many colours in the engine bay so i painted everything to match. With the Z i was gonna go black, yellow and silver, when i get to it all the black will be carbon, yellow silicon lines and the plenum will be polished should look good hopefully. Depends on how hardcore you go Cal, you can spend $$$ on making it look good but alot of maintenance to keep it that way rolleyes.gif

My R33 had heaps of colours, looked ok but everything has to be shiny, strut bar made this pic:

255000_10150225714463485_679318484_7337105_5246978_n.jpg

Where as the R32 has only a couple of colours:

180492_10150115639958485_679318484_6418592_4233463_n.jpg

I'm getting rid of the red fuel lines very soon, they were just all I had when I put the plenum on. Thinking of going with black actually cause I'm getting anodized blue bolts everywhere pretty much, then making a stainless heat shield for the exhaust manifold. So everything will be blue black or silver :)

Next year the engine bay might get a bit of a spray while the engine is out and everything that goes back in will get a refurb I think so hopefully it will look new.

Don't worry Ben, that's why I put them up. Need people's opinion. So anyway. ATM leaning towards black engine (basically like 3rd photo) with blue fixtures, polished manifold, heatshield and piping, blue vac hoses and black fuel lines.

Don't worry either, I haven't gone completely cosmetic with my mods now. More power coming soon

Crackle paint is the go e.g Z tune or R1 Engines, looks good and its not up all in your face like chrome. Chrome is for show ponies lol and very high maintenance, when i turbo my Z i want to paint the front timing cover and tapet cover in Crackle paint like the Mines VQ38 and probably just have the plenum polished... and yes before you ask i am putting a turbo on the Z not gonna reveal anything yet until i hear back from a guy may have it in a few weeks, all i can say is i'm going with my Favourite Brand HKS.....YEAH BABY!!!!!!!!banana.gif

tumblr_lf79t85rtU1qcagk8o1_500.jpg

Chrome cost big $$$ to get, our cam covers were already chrome when we bought it, yes chrome is easy to keep clean and polished is shit but either way still have to clean it all the time.

Looking good Cal the bolts look awesome gonna have to get some purple ones for the R32 thumbsup.gif

Just bought a Brand New HKS GT3037 Single Turbo Kit for the 350Z really hard to get now as they have been discontinued, won the auction on ebay. Since the GTR is getting sold i don't want Kingy's GTR and Richo Supra kicking my arse all the time so its time to crank this shit up. Its in Sydney so i should have it in a week, can't wait to start this project woot.gif. The 3037 is rated to 450-480HP have done some research and i will be selling the 3037 and buying the biggest T25 flange turbo i can fit which will be a HKS GT3240 rated at 580HP. That will give the little Z plenty of poke with bugger all lag compared to a RB engine. Now i just have to save for the rest of the parts i need. The list I'm thinking about goes something like this, parts subject to change.

Basic Parts list so far:

-Cosworth Pistons and Rods 8.9 to 1 Compression.

-Cosworth Camshafts.

-Cosworth Intake Manifold.

-Stillen Pulley Kit

-Koyo Radiator

-NPC Clutch

-Vipec V88 ECU

-ID 1000cc Injectors

-Nismo intank pump

-Nismo Thermostat

-Greddy Oil Cooler Kit

-Nismo 1.5way Diff

-Cosworth Fuel Rail Kit

-Maybe a 150HP Shot of Nitrous laugh.gif

+Much More still researching.

Didn't take me long to get bored with the 350Z N/A power hehehe!!!!!!! If anyone wants a HKS GT3037 turbo let me know.

nengun-1841-02-hks-special_turbo_system.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
    • It sounds like you want what the Toyota Landcruisers have for their roof racks. Wanna know what you end up with? Rust holes in the roof, and water everywhere...
    • Discovered today that if I select reverse first and take my foot off the brake, then select drive, the drive indicator light works and so does the tiptronic gear indicator. 
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Does anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
×
×
  • Create New...